double digging

 

have recently acquired a new allotment = see prevous posts.
have decided that double digging and the non use of chemicals was more
appropriate to my needs.
I'm not rushing things but intend to plant a few over winter onions, well
200, in a weeks time and leave the rest of planting for next spring.

However have dug my spit deep trench across the first bed, about 18 inches
wide BUT on attempting to fork over the bottom of my trench - no joy at all
cannot get a fork or spade into it - it is solid!
Any ideas guys please or am I being too pedantic in my prepartion. Think my
soil is mainly clay!

cheers

Alan

 


|>
|> However have dug my spit deep trench across the first bed, about 18 inches
|> wide BUT on attempting to fork over the bottom of my trench - no joy at all
|> cannot get a fork or spade into it - it is solid!
|> Any ideas guys please or am I being too pedantic in my prepartion. Think my
|> soil is mainly clay!

The fact that you can't get into it indicates how badly it needs breaking
up.  You don't want to do traditional double digging, because you don't
really want that on top, but you do need to loosen it.

What you need is a grub-axe (pick-mattock).  Not the flimsy junk sold
in garden centres, but a proper agricultural tool.  Failing that, a
straight pick-axe would do - but, whatever, a solid and heavy item.
The weight actually helps with such work.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

 



Snip

The RHS Encylopedia of Gardening says that double digging should be carried
out if the ground has not been previously cultivated or drainage needs to be
improved.

I suggest that before you give youself a hernia or backache for years you
ask other allotment holders what the topsoil is like in winter: i.e is it
dryish or swampy or what?

Bear in mind that it's been a very dry year (Was it for you?) so the
subsoil is very dry and it's not surprising it is like concrete.

Has your allotment been used before?  Have you checked the Ph?

Just think about a level double dug allotment with the second spit of clay..
There would be in effect, a sort of subsoil "pond" which will soon fill and
drainage would then be back to what it was before digging.  So much for
improved drainage for beneath the second spit is clay!.

If the top-soil has a high proportion of clay I think you would be far
better off to get loads of farmyard manure and after breaking the subsoil a
bit (if possible) half fill the trench you have before backfilling and
starting the next.  That would assist drainage and retain moisture - who
needs a subsoil "pond"?

If I was doing it I'd not bother with double digging if the sub-soil is as
hard as you say.

You could always have a small gravel board raised bed for exotics or a few
deep rooted plants I suppose.

200 onions?  You wont have any friends left!!

Lionel

 


It's all my friends who would like some lol

 




  I can only think, you have reached a clay pan subsoil, and it's very
very dry. You may find that soaking it with water softens it enough to
be able to loosen it a little (with fork, or mattock). All you are
aiming to do is break the surface so that deep rooting plants can
penetrate it and mine those minerals.

Before filling in each trench with the topsoil from the next,, spread
the bottom with  as much biodegradable material as you can lay hands on.
This will add humus to the soil and attract worms to build a good
structure.

This material could be , manure, spoiled straw or hay, the cleanings
from pet hutches, feathers from old pillows and duvets, upside down
turves, weeds, grass cuttings,  paper, cardboard, shredded wool or
cotton rags (no synthetics) , leaves, seaweed, old bracken, spoiled
crops, even hedge trimmings.  Don't worry if it's fresh or unrotted;
winter and worms will take care of that.

Janet.