Vine weevils- there must be an answer to this problem, surely?

 

I'm getting desperate, and just a tad wracked off with vine weevils in
my garden.

I spend a lot of money on shrubs and plants for my beloved garden
plot, like many of you who contribute to this excellent newsgroup.

2 years ago, I noticed that these little blighters were nibbling at
some of my plants, many mature and invaluable specimens that I
wouldn't want to lose.

Although I have treated the roots with the vine weevil chemicals
recommended, they are now decimating this year's fresh growth on
holly, rhodedendron etc.

does anyone know of a powerful spray to rid the plants of the
crteatures - there are just too many to go out and squidge them one by
one at dusk!

Is anyone else similarly inficted?

It feels like I am under attack from a plague I can't get rid of!!

Help!!!!!!!!!!!

Steve

 

On 23/6/07 14:05, in article
1182603909.466528.118150@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com, "Steve J"


Use the nematodes at the correct time of year.  They really do work.  We use
them here and we do not have a vine weevil problem.
But you can't use chemicals with them, so you have to keep your nerve and
let them get to work!

From the RHS site:
"Non-chemical control
    €    On mild spring or summer evenings inspect plants and walls by
torchlight and pick off the adult weevils. Shake shrubs over an upturned
umbrella to dislodge and collect more. In glasshouses, look under pots or on
the underside of staging where the beetles hide during the day.
    €    Trap adults with sticky barriers, such as Agralan Insect Barrier
Glue, around pots or glasshouse staging.
    €    Encourage natural enemies. Vine weevils and their grubs are eaten
by a variety of predators such as birds, frogs, toads, shrews, hedgehogs and
predatory ground beetles.
    €    A biological control of the larvae is available as a microscopic
pathogenic nematode (Steinernema kraussei) available from suppliers of
biological controls. Apply in August or early September when the soil
temperature is warm enough for the nematode to be effective (5-20oC/41-68oF)
and before the vine weevil grubs have grown large enough to cause damage.
Another nematode, Heterorhabditis megidis is also available but is more
temperature-dependant (12-20ºC/ 54-68ºF). Both nematodes can also be applied
to garden soil, but gives poor results in dry or heavy soils. They works
best in open potting composts such as peat or coir.

Chemical control
Levington Container & Hanging Basket Compost has been premixed with
slow-release granules of the pesticide imidacloprid and will control vine
weevil larvae for up to 12 months. It is best used for potting up seedlings,
plug plants, cuttings and tubers of cyclamen and begonia. When repotting
older plants, wash the old compost off the roots or it will provide a haven
for the grubs.
A better option for established pot plants is to apply one of the nematodes
(see above) or thiacloprid as a liquid drench (Provado Vine Weevil Killer
2). This insecticide gives protection against the grubs for up to four
months, but treatment in mid- to late summer will control the young larvae
and prevent damage occurring later in the autumn to spring period. Both
products are for use with ornamental plants in containers only.
Gardeners with vine weevil should keep up their guard because stopping
treatment after the apparent disappearance of the pest can allow numbers to
build up again."
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
(remove weeds from address)