Question about wiring lights

 I was finally able to get a set of 3- 2ft double bulb Flourescent
lights. On plain bulb and one warm.

They are the kind you have to wire yourself (they are meant for hard
wiring into the mains system).

The connections seem simple as do the directions. However since the
directions are for direct hard wire connection.....my hubby thinks
wiring them to connect via a plug will not be so simple. I am
enclosing a link to the directions. Once in view click on it and it
should blow up to full size if you click again (in Netscape anyway).

These were the least expensive (on sale 20% off at B&Q) and cheaper
than the ones that are already wired ( 4ft single battens with
diffusers -not useful).

I know I am not stating my case very well but I am not so wise in the
way of electricity :-/ .

Thanks
Julie
Any Question ask and I'll answer if I can.

The link is for Mains "hard wiring" How would you adapt to wiring via
a fused plug in connection instead?

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?uA17817&a1181231&pg628260

 

wiring from a plug is just the same, live to live etc.
only difference is that fixed wiring colours are slightly different:

fixed colour (flex colour)
RED (BROWN)
BLACK (BLUE)
BARE WIRE (GREEN/YELLOW)

HTH
    mrcheerful

 Note: X-posted to uk.d-i-y

(1) Where are you planning to install these lights? From the instructions it
is obvious that they are for use inside a house - and not in a bathroom in
the house. Certainly not for inside a greenhouse which would probably blow
away both the moisture and temperature constraints.
(2) If you are installing them inside a house, why do you need a plug and
socket instead of wiring them into the main lighting circuit? So you can
only use in spring, and store for the rest of the year?

I have read your previous thread about lack of sunlight, which also implies
lack of domestic lighting.

I am guessing that you are building some form of light box for use inside
the house to bring on seedlings?

From reading the instructions posted, as long as you follow the fitting
requirements i.e to a non-flammable, non-electrically-conductive surface and
make sure that it is earthed then connecting to a plug (with a suitable
fuse) should be fine.

I am a little concerned that because (I am presuming) they will be used for
raising seedlings that they will be in a humid environment  (which seedlings
normally like) which may exceed the IP20 rating.

I have cross-posted this to uk.d-i-y for the serious electricians to cross
check (please).

HTH
Dave R

 
We have a heated outbuilding and I plan to use it out there.


I wanted a plug and socket so I can have more flexibility in adjusting
height and also so they can be put away or moved as needed.


Yes I am making an open top  light box with fan ventilation for
seedlings.


The environment in which they will be used will not be too humid. The
seedlings are well up and should not need to much and with the
ventilation and the open top of the light box the Light fixture itself
should not be exposed to excess



Thanks a bunch. If you need any other details Please let me know.

Cheers
Julie

 

and shared worries about using a light fitting designed for "normal"
permanent ceiling installation.

Me, I wouldn't worry too much about the humidity - the fittings will
run warm enough that condensation on them is most unlikely. You do need
to make sure you have decent strain relief on the flex which connects
into the light fitting - there isn't usually any provision for strain
relief in tube fittings, so you may want to adapt something using a
cable gland or similar (tightish cable ties would do at a pinch, though
not really best practice!); but presumably you'll need an incoming feed
which then splits or loops to both the fan and the lights, right? So more
than one place to securely anchor the incoming mains lead.

Other thing to watch for is keeping ordinary PVC cable away from the
hottest bits of the fitting, the "ballast" - you'll see when you open it
up that the terminal block for the incoming wires is some few inches or
more away from that, while the wires running to the ballast are usually
wrapped in heat-resisting insulation. (If you're not sure which bit of
the tube fitting will run hottest, connect it up temporarily and feel
which bits got hot!). Keep your ordinary flex routed away from that part,
and/or use a more heat-tolerant flex like the one used for immersion
heaters...

If you're using this in a shed, you really want to be sure that the
shed's power supply comes through an RCD...

Happy light-box building - Stefek