Posted by Ornata on April 5, 2007, 6:19 am
I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
with the following questions?
1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
how old, or at what thickness of stem?
2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
bleed a lot of sap.
3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?
Thanks very much in advance.
Posted by Nick Maclaren on April 5, 2007, 6:36 am
|> I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
|> I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
|> understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
|> after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
|> with the following questions?
I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:
|> 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
|> how old, or at what thickness of stem?
Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.
|> 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
|> bleed a lot of sap.
Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).
|> 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
|> height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?
Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Posted by Dave Hill on April 5, 2007, 8:20 am
On 5 Apr, 11:36, n...@cus.cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren) wrote:
> |> I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
> |> I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
> |> understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
> |> after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
> |> with the following questions?
> I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:
> |> 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
> |> how old, or at what thickness of stem?
> Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
> broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
> might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
> to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.
> |> 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
> |> bleed a lot of sap.
> Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
> leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).
> |> 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
> |> height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?
> Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.
> Regards,
> Nick Maclaren.
If you have several then why not plant them as clumps instead.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries
Posted by Ornata on April 10, 2007, 8:45 am
> On 5 Apr, 11:36, n...@cus.cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren) wrote:
> > |> I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
> > |> I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
> > |> understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
> > |> after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
> > |> with the following questions?
> > I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:
> > |> 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
> > |> how old, or at what thickness of stem?
> > Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
> > broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
> > might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
> > to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.
> > |> 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
> > |> bleed a lot of sap.
> > Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
> > leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).
> > |> 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
> > |> height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?
> > Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.
> > Regards,
> > Nick Maclaren.
> If you have several then why not plant them as clumps instead.
> David Hill
> Abacus Nurseries- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks all for the replies. I think I'll attempt a bit of butchery
this autumn when they're dormant. I'll keep them as separate trees
rather than planting several together, because there might be
variations in bark colour (which I suppose could look interesting but
then again it might just look odd!)
Posted by Dave Hill on April 10, 2007, 5:45 pm
> > On 5 Apr, 11:36, n...@cus.cam.ac.uk (Nick Maclaren) wrote:
> > > In article
> > > |> I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
> > > |> I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
> > > |> understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
> > > |> after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
> > > |> with the following questions?
> > > I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:
> > > |> 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
> > > |> how old, or at what thickness of stem?
> > > Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
> > > broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
> > > might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
> > > to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.
> > > |> 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
> > > |> bleed a lot of sap.
> > > Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
> > > leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).
> > > |> 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
> > > |> height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?
> > > Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.
> > > Regards,
> > > Nick Maclaren.
> > If you have several then why not plant them as clumps instead.
> > David Hill
> > Abacus Nurseries- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> Thanks all for the replies. I think I'll attempt a bit of butchery
> this autumn when they're dormant. I'll keep them as separate trees
> rather than planting several together, because there might be
> variations in bark colour (which I suppose could look interesting but
> then again it might just look odd!)
Why wait till the autumn?
Now is the time to cut them back to 3 or 4 leaves whilst they are
small and still in pots.
Then plant out next spring.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries
> |> I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
> |> understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
> |> after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
> |> with the following questions?
> I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:
> |> 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
> |> how old, or at what thickness of stem?
> Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
> broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
> might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
> to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.
> |> 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
> |> bleed a lot of sap.
> Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
> leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).
> |> 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
> |> height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?
> Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.
> Regards,
> Nick Maclaren.