Posted by Tim Watts on April 20, 2010, 9:28 am
Hi,
I've got good topsoil (6-12") on top of heavy clay (Sussex), reasonable
drainage. Having just chopped a 10' hawthorn hedge down to 3' for now[1],
I'm looking to start planting a new hedge between the hawthorn trunks and
take the hawthorn out when the new plants start to establish.
Are there likely to be any problems with my top 3 choices so far:
Box,
Yew,
Beech.
I might plant a hybrid hedge - I rather fancy crafting an arch in the coming
years over a pedestrian gate and I heard yew is good for that. Bit of beech
might make for some colour. May not bother with the box.
Any thoughts most welcome :)
Ta
Tim
[1] And spent 5 days and 5 gallons of petrol chipping 150ft lengths worth of
the b****rd stuff!!!
BTW I hate spiky plants...
--
Tim Watts
Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.
Posted by Janet Baraclough on April 20, 2010, 10:35 am
> Hi,
> I've got good topsoil (6-12") on top of heavy clay (Sussex), reasonable
> drainage. Having just chopped a 10' hawthorn hedge down to 3' for now[1],
> I'm looking to start planting a new hedge between the hawthorn trunks and
> take the hawthorn out when the new plants start to establish.
> Are there likely to be any problems with my top 3 choices so far:
> Box,
> Yew,
> Beech.
The soil will be filled, and drained dry of water and nutrients, by
the mature established root system of the hawthorns; no amount of
top-lopping
changes that. The stumps will very quickly re-sprout and (with
appropriate trimming) create a dense new hedge in a few years.
That competition will make it almost impossible to establish small
new hedge plants and make them grow.
Janet
Posted by Tim Watts on April 20, 2010, 11:15 am
wibbled on Tuesday 20 April 2010 15:35
>
>> Hi,
>
>> I've got good topsoil (6-12") on top of heavy clay (Sussex), reasonable
>> drainage. Having just chopped a 10' hawthorn hedge down to 3' for now[1],
>> I'm looking to start planting a new hedge between the hawthorn trunks and
>> take the hawthorn out when the new plants start to establish.
>
>> Are there likely to be any problems with my top 3 choices so far:
>
>> Box,
>> Yew,
>> Beech.
>
> The soil will be filled, and drained dry of water and nutrients, by
> the mature established root system of the hawthorns; no amount of
> top-lopping
> changes that. The stumps will very quickly re-sprout and (with
> appropriate trimming) create a dense new hedge in a few years.
>
> That competition will make it almost impossible to establish small
> new hedge plants and make them grow.
>
> Janet
OK - Point taken. But ignoring that, because there's not a lot I can do
about it[1], do any of the plants object to clay?
[1] OK - I could chop the hawthorn down now (3' is easy to handle now the
bulk is off) but it will take a while for the new plants to establish and
the hawthorn is actually quite gappy in places - I was going to start
there... Having a bit of a hedge in place for now isn't a bad thing.
I could also add slow acting fertiliser if necessary.
Cheers
Tim
--
Tim Watts
Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.
Posted by Charlie Pridham on April 21, 2010, 7:40 am
says...
> wibbled on Tuesday 20 April 2010 15:35
>
> >
> >> Hi,
> >
> >> I've got good topsoil (6-12") on top of heavy clay (Sussex), reasonable
> >> drainage. Having just chopped a 10' hawthorn hedge down to 3' for now[1],
> >> I'm looking to start planting a new hedge between the hawthorn trunks and
> >> take the hawthorn out when the new plants start to establish.
> >
> >> Are there likely to be any problems with my top 3 choices so far:
> >
> >> Box,
> >> Yew,
> >> Beech.
> >
> > The soil will be filled, and drained dry of water and nutrients, by
> > the mature established root system of the hawthorns; no amount of
> > top-lopping
> > changes that. The stumps will very quickly re-sprout and (with
> > appropriate trimming) create a dense new hedge in a few years.
> >
> > That competition will make it almost impossible to establish small
> > new hedge plants and make them grow.
> >
> > Janet
>
> OK - Point taken. But ignoring that, because there's not a lot I can do
> about it[1], do any of the plants object to clay?
>
> [1] OK - I could chop the hawthorn down now (3' is easy to handle now the
> bulk is off) but it will take a while for the new plants to establish and
> the hawthorn is actually quite gappy in places - I was going to start
> there... Having a bit of a hedge in place for now isn't a bad thing.
>
> I could also add slow acting fertiliser if necessary.
>
> Cheers
> Tim
>
>
Probably a bit late into this thread but I would cross box off the list
as if you get Box blight it defoliates them and it looks awfull!
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea
Posted by Tim Watts on April 21, 2010, 7:55 am
wibbled on Wednesday 21 April 2010 12:40
> Probably a bit late into this thread but I would cross box off the list
> as if you get Box blight it defoliates them and it looks awfull!
Not at all late :)
OK - didn't know that - Box is off. Bit slow growing anyway (I'd like a
hedge in less than 10 years starting with tiny cheap saplings).
Thanks!
--
Tim Watts
Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.
> I've got good topsoil (6-12") on top of heavy clay (Sussex), reasonable
> drainage. Having just chopped a 10' hawthorn hedge down to 3' for now[1],
> I'm looking to start planting a new hedge between the hawthorn trunks and
> take the hawthorn out when the new plants start to establish.
> Are there likely to be any problems with my top 3 choices so far:
> Box,
> Yew,
> Beech.