Another orchid question.

 
I've started a new thread so as not to detract from Spider's question.
I have asked before about 2 orchids I have which I cannot get to
reflower, one phalaenopsis and one cymbidium.
I know I don't feed enough and only use orchid flower liquid feed.
I've just bought another phalaenopsis (Ikea) as I'm fed up with not
having a flower.
The cymbidium had got so big, in over 10 years with no flowers, that
I've just divided it up and given 3 pieces away.  
On Saturday I went to an open day of the Writhlington School Orchid
Project, well known in the orchid world.  I was advised to leave my
cymbidium outside till November, and told that a light frost is good
for them.
Any advise on that?  What do other cymbidium growers do?


Pam in Bristol

 On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 22:13:38 +0100, Pam Moore


Oops, advice!  Advise me, give me some advice!

Pam in Bristol

 
I can't advise on the cymbidium, but my phalaenopsis are rarely out of
flower.  They live on a north facing but warm and bright window.  Very
little draft, very rarely bother feeding, very frequently (about once every
2 weeks) totally soak, sometimes the entire plant underwater (often in
cooled bath water)
The very important thing, IME, for making a good reflower, is to make sure
the old flower stem is /totally/ removed.  Takes longer to reflower,
allegedly, but flowers better.
I've never faffed about with this temperature changing business, but it may
be that the nroth facing window naturally does what is required for me
without me having to do anything.

(Good luck)

 On 19/09/2011 22:48, vicky@dinky.vm.bytemark.co.uk wrote:

My experience in similar to yours.  The phalaenopsis lives on a
NW-facing bathroom window.  Fed maybe a couple of times a year (if I
remember!).  Left to stand in water for an hour to top of soil level
once every 4 - 6 months.  I don't bother with rainwater -  just water
from the hot tap which has been allowed to cool.

I usually only cut the flower spike off when it's finished flowering and
looking tatty.  The new flower spike is usually already well-formed by
then with several buds on it.

Only other thing to add is that in the couple of times I've repotted it
(in about 8 years) it has sulked for 6 - 9 months and refused to flower.
  But once it has started it is very reliable.

--

Jeff

 "Pam Moore"  wrote

I'm not so sure about frost but as I've said before they need cool/cold
nights to initiate flower spikes, it's the trigger that starts the flowering
process. I take ours in as soon as the forecast is for frost, but not
before. You probably keep your cymbidiums too comfortable which is why they
don't flower but grow well.

Similar with the Phal', it's change/reduction of temperature that initiates
flowering, although these are tropical plants so they don't need the cold
Cymbids do. A change of windowsill to a cooler room might just do it, watch
the watering though. The real prize winners do the change of temperature a
few times in weeks to elongate the spikes and get a huge number of flowers
on a plant.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK