Advice clearing overgrown shrub bed for lawn

 


Hi All,

I'm not a confident gardener and typically in the past I would hire a
gardener
to do bigger jobs but I figure that if continue to do that I'll
never learn how
to do these things myself so this spring/summer I have a
few jobs that I am keen
to get stuck into it and all I need is the know
how (maybe time off work too). I
will attempt this task first and
depending on its success you never know .. I
could be hooked.

I have a shrub bed about 20 x 5 ft that is overgrown with weeds and the
shrubs
look dead or tired. It also contains 1 tree and 1 dead broken
tree.  I have a
new baby in the house and get little time to tend to the
bed so I'm planing on
clearing it and sowing a lawn which should
hopefully be less maintanance.

This is my plan thus far from reading various site. I would appreciate
any
advice or pointers:

1 Kill weeds - Treat the weeds with Bio Glyphosate probably spraying or
with a
watering can but being careful not to damage the remaining good
tree.  Leave for
1 week.

2 Dig out the broken dead tree.  Will this be hard work?

3 Clear the area - Strim, rip and dig out tired shrubs and any weeds.

4 Till the bed with a hired tiller.

5 Add some top soil -  Get some 50lb bags of tops soils Any idea how
much I
would need and do I need to get it delivered or just buy it from
a garden centre?

6 Mix in top soil and rake to Level. The bed adjacent to an existing
lawn so
hopefully I can get it level enough to blend in with that.

7 Sow some grass seeds and water.


How does that sound to you guys who know what your doing? BTW if any of
this is
overkill please let me know as my back isn't looking foward to
the tasks ahead.


Thanks


Scott




--
Scottyboy

 

On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 05:32:56 -0400, Scottyboy


I'm not very organic - this is what I'd do (I might use ammonium
sulphamate as that's both not legal and turns into a nice fertiliser
after a month or two - not sure if this would be wise with the good tree
though?... Otherwise I'd use the glyphosphate as you suggest.). Leave
everything to die. If you keep it off the leaves of the good tree, it
should be OK - try to apply to the foliage of the weeds.


Axe or jigsaw/reciprocating saw/Bosch pruning saw will make cutting the
roots easier if they are big. How big the the trunk? Tap root can be the
one that gets you. Iron bar as a lever or even a rope on teh back of teh
car if you have line of sight between them to help rip it out. Burning
the stump out is another option (pile of coal or charcoal or pile of wood
round the stump - need an intense small fire that can be fuelled for some
time until the stump is reduce enough.


Or burn them off - once good and dead, after a few weeks in the sun
they'll be fairly flammable. Or don't bother and till them into the
ground which is what I'd do if adding topsoil on top.


Good plan - done that, it works. Simple 2 blade petrol jobbie will manage
this perfectly well in half a day. Have a box ready to collect any big
stones that surface - may as well remove these.


Possibly cheaper to get a one ton bag delivered and barrow that round.
20x5 foot sounds like it would benefit from a ton rather than a few 50lb
bags. Check the price from a few local suppliers - 25kg bags are
notoriously expensive way to buy soil - you may find a ton bag is no more
expensive than rather a lot less in bag form.


If the topsoil is good, I would just rake it and leave it at the top.
Give it time to settle and possibly add more soil if maintaining level
with an existing lawn is important - after all that tilling, there will
be quite a bit of settling unless you really pack the soil down as you go.


Choose your grass well. Don't just buy any old stuff. Do you want a fine
grass, a rougher hardwaring grass (usually has rye grass in, and most of
the generic packets of seed have rye unless otherwise stated). Would it
benefit from a shade tolerant grass due to trees?
 
I'm not much of a gardener, but I've had some success with seeding lawns
in similar conditions to yours :)

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

 


HI Tim,

Thank, really apreciate the detailed advice.

I'll go with the glyphosphate to kill the weeds as the area I am workin
on isn't
enclosed and although I'll warn them the neighbours kids being
kids might stray
on the shrub bed. (BTW there aren't any rules about
appluying weedkiller to
areas that aren't fenced off?) This also rules
out a burn although that would
probabkly be a great way to do the job if
I didn't burn my house down.

The dead tree is small only about 6" thick so hopefully I can get most
of it out
by digging and cutting. If I were to leave those roots in
would it affect the
lawn or another small tree if I where to plant it in
it's place?

Your the second person to suggest to me a ton of topsoil delived so I
may go for
that. Will have to ring round and get a few prices.

On the grass type. I'm looking for hardwaring so I'll look for somer rye
in it.
As I said the area isn't enclosed so those pesky kids will
probably use it as a
play area.

Thanks Again. I'll post on how it pans out. :)




--
Scottyboy

 

  wibbled on Sunday 18 April 2010 10:18


No problem there.


Good luck :)

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

 


Hi All,

Just to let you know that I finished this little project Saturday. Steps
1-7
completed! Good hard work weeding, tilling and levelling but
enjoyable.. All I
need now is the grass to grow!  

Just wanted to say thanks particularly to Tim but to all the guys on
this forum.
Having a resource like this really does encourage novices to
give it a go.  I
have few more garden projects I would like to undertake
so will stay tuned to
this forum.

Cheers

S




--
Scottyboy