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Posted by on September 28, 2008, 1:29 am
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Is it possible to move oak tree that is few years old about 8 or 9 foot tall
and is about 2" at base? if so, how?
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Posted by on September 28, 2008, 8:54 am
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On Sep 28, 6:29=A0am, dinglebe...@fruitcake.org wrote:
> Is it possible to move oak tree that is few years old about 8 or 9 foot t=
all
> and is about 2" at base? if so, how?
It is Possible to move any tree that is decidious meaning the leaves
fall from them. Best time to do this is in winter when the leaves
have completly come from the tree. This is when all the sap from the
tree goes down into the roots. It sounds like a decent tree 8-9 ft
tall but i have personally done trees that have been over 50years old
so no problem. Make sure that you dig a massive hole around the roots
so not to brake to many roots off dig also down really deeply. Don't
just try to dig in with a fork and give it a wiggle until it comes out
you really wnat to dig out as much soil as pos. I hope this helps try
www.gardeningcareblog.com
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Posted by Sheldon on September 28, 2008, 11:32 am
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dinglebe wrote:
>
> Is it possible to move oak tree that is few years old about 8 or 9 foot tall
> and is about 2" at base? if so, how?
A tree that size is fairly easy to move. First dig a hole at the new
location, about 4' diameter, about 3' deep... remove sod and shake out
topsoil into a bucket/wheelbarrow... remove any stones... you can
compost the cleaned sod. I always lay down a plastic tarp to place
soil dug from hole, makes for less soil loss and less disturbance to
adjacent area... I also pile the top soil on the tarp in a separate
heap
Then water your tree deeply to soften the soil and help it hold
together. With a sharp garden spade cut all around the tree about 16"
from the trunk (pruning the roots is desirable), you'll want another
plastic tarp for piling soil at this location too. Next remove any
sod and shake out top soil as previously. Use topsoil to prepare new
location, depending on soil quality you may want to amend with peat
moss. You will need a few cubic feet extra to make up the soil loss
from digging... you'll also need decent soil to refill the hole at the
original location too.
Carefully dig a trench all around the tree while undercutting roots so
that a root ball is formed (probably 18" depth). Next carefully lift
tree into a wheelbarrow trying not to break root ball (you may need a
second set of hands, a root ball can be heavy, yours will weigh about
100 pounds). Next plant tree in new hole, a bit higher than
previously, water while refilling but do not tamp soil, be sure tree
is plumb (use a level), it could be beneficial to tilt tree a few
degrees away from the direction the sun will strike it. Prune back
about 1/4 of side branches (will encourage new growth in spring and
will present less resistance to winter winds and less area for snow
and ice to adhere, if you live in such a clime. You shouldn't need to
brace a tree that size, but keep an eye on it, if it begins to lean
from winds add some stakes and tie down, loosely, trees need to move
in order to encourage strong lateral roots... remove bracing in
spring. Add a thick layer of mulch around tree, leaves and straw held
down with old lumber work well. Were the tree much larger you'd most
likely need some kind of digging machine; backhoe/excavator... so
don't put this job off. Fall is an excellent time to plant.
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Posted by on September 28, 2008, 12:44 pm
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Just couple questions. Should I wait for leafs to fall off? Why so deep
hole in new location, if root ball is 18" deep.
Thanks much....really do appreciate the help.
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Posted by Sheldon on September 28, 2008, 4:44 pm
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On Sep 28, 12:44=EF=BF=BDpm, dinglebe...@fruitcake.org wrote:
> Just couple questions. =EF=BF=BDShould I wait for =EF=BF=BDleafs to fall =
off? =EF=BF=BD
No. Most oaks in northern climes hold their leaves all winter.
Why so deep
> hole in new location, if root ball is 18" deep.
> Thanks much....really do appreciate the help.
The planting hole should ideally be twice the dimensions of the root
ball so that there is plenty of room for adding arable amended soil.
Cramming the root ball right up against compacted soil will not allow
for new root growth to occur easily nor will it permit much air and
water to penetrate. You can get by with a small planting hole but the
larger the hole the better the chance for the tree to do well right
from the start.
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