Posted by clare on January 23, 2010, 4:37 pm
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 19:23:36 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
>Can't say as I've ever heard that.
Particularly true of engines that do not get up to full operating
temperature.
Propane, being a "dry gas" does not have this problem. Nor does CNG.
Posted by PeterD on January 24, 2010, 8:49 am
On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 16:37:38 -0500, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 19:23:36 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
>>Can't say as I've ever heard that.
>Particularly true of engines that do not get up to full operating
>temperature.
Diesel engines are so efficient that at unloaded idle they barely get
warm. I've got engines that you can touch the exhaust manifold if they
have only been idling, even 10 minutes after starting. (pretty
amazing).
>Propane, being a "dry gas" does not have this problem. Nor does CNG.
True...
Best fix is simply to make sure the generator is loaded during
exercising runs. The rule that I have is the run is 45 minutes, 15
minutes pre-online to get warmed up some, and to allow checking of
everything, then 30 minutes full load (or as close as I can get to
full load). Then a proper shutdown, and I'm set for the next exercise
run (or next power failure!)
Posted by The Daring Dufas on January 26, 2010, 8:52 pm
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Can't say as I've ever heard that.
>
When you exercise a stationary generator, you want to run it long enough
to boil away any raw gas or water that may be in the system. I installed
quite a few Generac air and liquid cooled generators. My favorites are
the 1800rpm liquid cooled units instead of the 3600rpm screamers which
are either air or liquid cooled. Raw gas is not a problem with NG or LPG
but moisture buildup in the exhaust system and crankcase can cause
problems. Getting the whole thing warm tends to drive moisture out of
every little nook and cranny which will help prevent corrosion of
fasteners, electrical components and windings. One of the most vexing
problems involved dirt/mud daubers building nests in every 1/4" opening
on a generator especially vent tubes for the gas pressure regulators.
This is solved by pinching the end of the tube down until it looks like
a double barreled shotgun. Use it or lose it.
TDD
Posted by Stormin Mormon on January 22, 2010, 7:21 pm
For portable, you're likely limited to gasoline.
One cord will handle 120 and 240 volts, both. Your
electrician can do this.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
RBM, thank you for the good comments !! I am looking for a
portable
generator, as the is the price class that I am in. I will
have a transfer
switch installed by a qualified electrician, but it will not
be
automatically engaged. If we lost power, I will start the
generator and
flip the transfer switch.
As to the power cord, I am confused......... on the units I
have seen, they
have one or more 120 volt outlets, and most have one or two
240 volt
outlets..... I would not need cords for each of these
outlets ??
Very good comments/comparisons of gas, diesel, and propane.
Thanks again !!
James
Posted by ransley on January 22, 2010, 4:30 pm
> After last month's ice storm in North Carolina, I have decided to invest in
> a portable generator. After some research at various sites, I am certain
> that around 8 kw will fit my needs. However, I still have **many** very
> basic questions about generator types, fuel storage, fuel consumption,
> power cabling to the transfer switch, etc.
> I know there are a lot of questions, and hopefully folks will comment or
> advise on the ones about which they have knowledge or experience.
> -------------------------------------------
> In terms of efficiency and fuel use, which generator type is best.....
> gas, diesel, or
> propane ?
> Has anyone here used a tri-fuel generator, such as the one made by Northern
> Industrial Tools ?
> How can one safely and properly store 150 gallons of gas ? I figure this is
> the maximum
> amount that i would need in any severe storm. I am aware of the use of
> Stabil, and I would
> also "rotate" the gas at least once a year.
> Has anyone here used a propane generator ? If so, how well did you like it
> ? What
> model have you used ? If you have not used one, do you know of one on the
> market
> right now, in the 8 KW range ? (I find that all the propane ones I find
> are much larger
> generators, up to 12-15 kw or higher).
> In terms of fuel usage, is a gallon of propane about the same as a gallon of
> gas ?
> I need 6 120 volt circuits, and two 240 circuits. The 240 circuits
> are needed for
> hot water, and water pump. Will this mean that I will need 3 distinct
> power cables run
> from my generator to the transfer switch in the house ? Are these
> pre-manufactured
> cables in given lengths, or will my electrician custom make cables ??
> If I use a propane tank, it may well be 50 feet lower in elevation than my
> generator, and
> up to 100 feet away. Will the propane travel an uphill run like this ?
> What is your favorite generator in the 7-8 KW range ?
> -------------------------
> Well, that should be enough questions for now !!
> Thank you in advance for any comment or advice !!
> James
If you have Propane or Ng get a Tri fuel unit, gas goes bad and
filling it and storage is a pain. a 3600 rpm gas unit of Honda motor
quality is worth maybe 2-4000 hours, cheap motors you get much less
life, the cheapest around 300 hours. How you load it will determine
alot of its life. 10 days running full will wear out some units, the
biggest life increase is low rpm 1800 and lower but those are alot
more money commercial units.
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