Posted by George.com on July 15, 2006, 5:35 am
> Jim Ledford wrote:
> >
> > the first real problem needing correction where grass is to
> > be grown in heavy clay content soil is to correct the pH of
> > the heavy clay soil. a pH of 7 is ideal for most all grass
> > types. clay most always test at a pH of 4 to 4.8 it takes
> > one ton of lime to the acre to move the pH one point on that
> > one acre of land. after having the clay soil tested to gain
> > a starting point break the applications down into 4 to 6
> > applications separated by at least 4 week intervals.
> If I understand you correctly, I should bother fertilizing, since lime
> will raise the pH level to a point in which fertilization and
> weed-killing is unnecessary. However, just out of curiousity, if I
> were to fertilize, would THAT interfere in any way with corrective
> activities of lime? Also, if a fertilizer is applied shortly before or
> shortly after the lime application, would that cause any problems?
test the soil first and then add lime IF the ph needs adjusting to somewhere
near 6.5-7. The soil test comes first. You can get this done professionally
or home test kits give you a rudimentary idea (depends on how accurate you
want to be/money you want to spend). Killing weeds and feeding regimes come
after that. Soils have a natural process of making nutrients available to
plants. The soil, and the host of organisms in it, needs to be in a place
where it can work properly. A likeness, you having a shower to get ready for
work whilst you are still in bed. The shower is to get clean, lying in bed
won't help you. You have to get up and place yourself in the shower.
A good feeding regime from there will improve both your soil and plant
growth. Organic material is preferable over synthetic fertilisers. It feeds
the soil organisms who in turn feed and care for your plants.
If your soil ph is close to 6.5 or 7 then gypsum will deal to a clay soil.
Get assistance from the retailer as to how much lime you need to apply to
balance up your soil. If you get a professional soil test, ask the testing
agency for details of how much lime to apply and when to apply it.
There are 2 types of lime, agricultural lime (calcium carbonate) which is
slow acting and hydrated or slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) which is faster
acting but should not be used with fertilisers. Be sure which type you are
getting and the advice matches the type of lime.
rob
Posted by Jim Ledford on July 15, 2006, 10:19 pm
George.com wrote:
> Elena Sofia wrote:
> > Jim Ledford wrote:
> >
> > >
[....]
> > > after having the clay soil tested to gain
[....]
> > >
> >
> > If I understand you correctly, I should bother fertilizing, since lime
> > will raise the pH level to a point in which fertilization and
> > weed-killing is unnecessary. However, just out of curiousity, if I
> > were to fertilize, would THAT interfere in any way with corrective
> > activities of lime? Also, if a fertilizer is applied shortly before or
> > shortly after the lime application, would that cause any problems?
>
> test the soil first and then add lime IF the ph needs adjusting to somewhere
> near 6.5-7. The soil test comes first. You can get this done professionally
> or home test kits give you a rudimentary idea (depends on how accurate you
> want to be/money you want to spend). Killing weeds and feeding regimes come
> after that. Soils have a natural process of making nutrients available to
> plants. The soil, and the host of organisms in it, needs to be in a place
> where it can work properly. A likeness, you having a shower to get ready for
> work whilst you are still in bed. The shower is to get clean, lying in bed
> won't help you. You have to get up and place yourself in the shower.
>
> A good feeding regime from there will improve both your soil and plant
> growth. Organic material is preferable over synthetic fertilisers. It feeds
> the soil organisms who in turn feed and care for your plants.
>
> If your soil ph is close to 6.5 or 7 then gypsum will deal to a clay soil.
>
> Get assistance from the retailer as to how much lime you need to apply to
> balance up your soil. If you get a professional soil test, ask the testing
> agency for details of how much lime to apply and when to apply it.
>
> There are 2 types of lime, agricultural lime (calcium carbonate) which is
> slow acting and hydrated or slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) which is faster
> acting but should not be used with fertilisers. Be sure which type you are
> getting and the advice matches the type of lime.
>
> rob
good information Rob! good job!
Posted by George.com on July 15, 2006, 7:54 am
> George.com wrote:
> > Elena Sofia wrote:
> > > Jim Ledford wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> [....]
> > > > after having the clay soil tested to gain
> [....]
> > > >
> > >
> > > If I understand you correctly, I should bother fertilizing, since lime
> > > will raise the pH level to a point in which fertilization and
> > > weed-killing is unnecessary. However, just out of curiousity, if I
> > > were to fertilize, would THAT interfere in any way with corrective
> > > activities of lime? Also, if a fertilizer is applied shortly before
or
> > > shortly after the lime application, would that cause any problems?
> >
> > test the soil first and then add lime IF the ph needs adjusting to
somewhere
> > near 6.5-7. The soil test comes first. You can get this done
professionally
> > or home test kits give you a rudimentary idea (depends on how accurate
you
> > want to be/money you want to spend). Killing weeds and feeding regimes
come
> > after that. Soils have a natural process of making nutrients available
to
> > plants. The soil, and the host of organisms in it, needs to be in a
place
> > where it can work properly. A likeness, you having a shower to get ready
for
> > work whilst you are still in bed. The shower is to get clean, lying in
bed
> > won't help you. You have to get up and place yourself in the shower.
> >
> > A good feeding regime from there will improve both your soil and plant
> > growth. Organic material is preferable over synthetic fertilisers. It
feeds
> > the soil organisms who in turn feed and care for your plants.
> >
> > If your soil ph is close to 6.5 or 7 then gypsum will deal to a clay
soil.
> >
> > Get assistance from the retailer as to how much lime you need to apply
to
> > balance up your soil. If you get a professional soil test, ask the
testing
> > agency for details of how much lime to apply and when to apply it.
> >
> > There are 2 types of lime, agricultural lime (calcium carbonate) which
is
> > slow acting and hydrated or slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) which is
faster
> > acting but should not be used with fertilisers. Be sure which type you
are
> > getting and the advice matches the type of lime.
> >
> > rob
> good information Rob! good job!
"Yates Garden Guide" Jim, institutionalised NZ garden bible. He wrote it
decades before I first read it. Copies have been in my family 35 years at
least. Stuff about organic feeds though is common sense eh.
rob
Posted by Jim Ledford on July 16, 2006, 8:32 am
George.com wrote:
> Jim Ledford wrote:
> > George.com wrote:
> > > Elena Sofia wrote:
> > > > Jim Ledford wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > [....]
> > > > > after having the clay soil tested to gain
> > [....]
> > > > >
> > > >
[....]
> > > The soil test comes first. You can get this done
[....]
> > >
> > > rob
> >
> > good information Rob! good job!
>
> "Yates Garden Guide" Jim, institutionalised NZ garden bible. He wrote it
> decades before I first read it. Copies have been in my family 35 years at
> least. Stuff about organic feeds though is common sense eh.
>
> rob
a friend once jokingly stated how he was born knowing everything
but has since forgotten a few things and as such on occasion has
the need to consult reference material.
Posted by trader4 on July 16, 2006, 10:28 am
Before applying lime or anything else based on a neighbors memory of
what the soil contained when it was graded, I'd have the soil tested.
Many states have an agr ext service where you can get a complete
analysis of the soil, including it;s PH, compostion and advice on how
to improve it, for a reasonable fee of about $10.
XML site map
> >
> > the first real problem needing correction where grass is to
> > be grown in heavy clay content soil is to correct the pH of
> > the heavy clay soil. a pH of 7 is ideal for most all grass
> > types. clay most always test at a pH of 4 to 4.8 it takes
> > one ton of lime to the acre to move the pH one point on that
> > one acre of land. after having the clay soil tested to gain
> > a starting point break the applications down into 4 to 6
> > applications separated by at least 4 week intervals.
> If I understand you correctly, I should bother fertilizing, since lime
> will raise the pH level to a point in which fertilization and
> weed-killing is unnecessary. However, just out of curiousity, if I
> were to fertilize, would THAT interfere in any way with corrective
> activities of lime? Also, if a fertilizer is applied shortly before or
> shortly after the lime application, would that cause any problems?