Posted by JRStern on February 19, 2010, 4:08 pm
wrote:
>Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full of weeds & seeds),
>and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
>the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.
How about some bark chips? unlikely to include seeds.
J.
Posted by troyc on February 19, 2010, 4:45 pm
> wrote:
> >Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full ofweeds& seeds),
> >and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
> >the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.
> How about some bark chips? unlikely to include seeds.
> J.
Up to you & depends. If the area will remain exposed, bark mulch will
certainly look nice (if a fresh layer is 'top-dressed' yearly). And
if applied thickly it will hold back weeds fairly well (you will still
have some weeds regardless - Mother Nature is tenacious).
If it's all going to be buried under your ground cover eventually
anyway, clean straw is probably better. DEFINITELY don't till in wood
chips unless you want to be adding N fertilizer for the rest of your
life.
Posted by brooklyn1 on February 19, 2010, 5:11 pm
>... the straw will act as a
>> short term mulch that will significantly inhibit weed growth until the
>> ground cover gets a good start. Straw is cheap, needs no tools to
>> apply other than your hands and becomes composted quickly which amends
>> the soil, much better than costly, dangerous, and pervasive chemicals.
>> Even if your ground cover is a newly seeded lawn covering the seed
>> with straw will encourage faster germination by retaining moisture and
>> will deter the birds from eating your seed.
>Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full of weeds & seeds),
There are seeds in the ground naturally, with new seeds added to the
mix constantly, naturally, from many sources, by many means, by wind,
bird excrement, etc. What one needs to grasp is that the straw will
deter germination/propagation of most seeds, even its own seeds, while
giving the ground cover plants time to take hold. Once ground cover
begins to propogate it takes care of whatever few weeds escape...
certain plants are called ground cover for a reason, thier growth
habit surpasses competition. A secondary purpose of ground cover
could be to deter erosion but primarily to ensure that no other plants
compete, which is why it's important to choose the correct ground
cover for the locale... often folks indescriminately choose a ground
cover because they think it's handsome but if it can't compete with
native plants it would not become a sucessful ground cover.
>and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
>the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.
That's what I said, why would someone work straw into the soil when
it's purpose is a mulch? The concept of using straw as a mulch as
averse to a more sturdy mulching material, is that it will decompose
at about the same rate a ground cover grows.
Didn't you read and undertand what I wrote?
Posted by troyc on February 19, 2010, 6:22 pm
> >Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full ofweeds& seeds),
> There are seeds in the ground naturally, with new seeds added to the
> mix constantly, naturally, from many sources, by many means, by wind,
> bird excrement, etc. What one needs to grasp is that the straw will
> deter germination/propagation of most seeds, even its own seeds, while
> giving the ground cover plants time to take hold.
It will only deter germination on seeds which are at the bottom of the
pile, most of which will be. However, trust me, I have seen people
increase their weed issues with dirty straw.
> Once ground cover
> begins to propogate it takes care of whatever fewweedsescape...
> certain plants are called ground cover for a reason, thier growth
> habit surpasses competition. A secondary purpose of ground cover
> could be to deter erosion but primarily to ensure that no other plants
> compete, which is why it's important to choose the correct ground
> cover for the locale... often folks indescriminately choose a ground
> cover because they think it's handsome but if it can't compete with
> native plants it would not become a sucessful ground cover.
Yes, quite correct.
> >and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
> >the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.
> That's what I said, why would someone work straw into the soil when
> it's purpose is a mulch? The concept of using straw as a mulch as
> averse to a more sturdy mulching material, is that it will decompose
> at about the same rate a ground cover grows.
> Didn't you read and undertand what I wrote?
I understood it perfectly - no need to be snotty about it. We're
having a reasonable discussion here.
I wrote that as a caution, because *I've seen people do it* (and stunt
their plants in the process). They do it because they think if they
work a load of straw in next to their plants it will deter weeds and
provide nutrients in the process - not realizing the high C:N ratio
will tie up nitrogen for awhile. My reply was a caution to the person
who who was asking the original question in the thread. Chill out.
Posted by brooklyn1 on February 19, 2010, 6:36 pm
wrote:
>>
>> >Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full ofweeds& seeds),
>>
>> There are seeds in the ground naturally, with new seeds added to the
>> mix constantly, naturally, from many sources, by many means, by wind,
>> bird excrement, etc. What one needs to grasp is that the straw will
>> deter germination/propagation of most seeds, even its own seeds, while
>> giving the ground cover plants time to take hold.
>It will only deter germination on seeds which are at the bottom of the
>pile, most of which will be. However, trust me, I have seen people
>increase their weed issues with dirty straw.
>> Once ground cover
>> begins to propogate it takes care of whatever fewweedsescape...
>> certain plants are called ground cover for a reason, thier growth
>> habit surpasses competition. A secondary purpose of ground cover
>> could be to deter erosion but primarily to ensure that no other plants
>> compete, which is why it's important to choose the correct ground
>> cover for the locale... often folks indescriminately choose a ground
>> cover because they think it's handsome but if it can't compete with
>> native plants it would not become a sucessful ground cover.
>Yes, quite correct.
>>
>> >and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
>> >the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.
>>
>> That's what I said, why would someone work straw into the soil when
>> it's purpose is a mulch? The concept of using straw as a mulch as
>> averse to a more sturdy mulching material, is that it will decompose
>> at about the same rate a ground cover grows.
>> Didn't you read and undertand what I wrote?
>I understood it perfectly - no need to be snotty about it. We're
>having a reasonable discussion here.
>I wrote that as a caution, because *I've seen people do it* (and stunt
>their plants in the process). They do it because they think if they
>work a load of straw in next to their plants it will deter weeds and
>provide nutrients in the process - not realizing the high C:N ratio
>will tie up nitrogen for awhile. My reply was a caution to the person
>who who was asking the original question in the thread. Chill out.
You're being snotty, and rude. If your reply was meant for the OP
then that's to whom you should have replied, and in a timely fashion.
Actually you added nothing, you attempted to credit yourself by
hijacking my suggestions, you are also smarmy.
>and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to
>the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.