Which chainsaw?

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Posted by Phisherman on February 20, 2005, 10:59 pm
 
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I'm thinking about getting a gas-powered chainsaw, perhaps 16" or
less, and wondered model/brands folks like best or worked well.  I'm
considered Stihl and Husqvarna.  Any other quality brands?  I have
about 150 trees, probably an occasional use of the chainsaw.  TIA


Posted by Timothy on February 20, 2005, 11:28 pm
 On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 03:59:14 +0000, Phisherman wrote:


For the price range that your looking at ($225.00 or so) I personally like
the echo cs 305. I really like the weight of it (it quite light) and it's
powerful enough to do what you ask of it. Really though, either of those
saws, Stihls and husqvarna will do very well for you. I'd recommend that
you look at each of these saws, hold them, start them and the like and see
which one your most comfortable with. That's the most important aspect
imho.

--
Yard Works Gardening Co.
http://www.ywgc.com

Posted by Stephen Henning on February 21, 2005, 9:23 am
 On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 03:59:14 +0000, Phisherman wrote:


No matter which saw you buy you can buy bars of different lengths if you
find you need a different length bar.  If you go to a saw shop, they
will match up the bar length you want on any of their saws.  My saw has
two bars, a standard bar and a brush bar.  The brush bar is designed for
cutting at the end.

The saws that are the best balanced are the Stihl 025 C, Echo CS-4400,
Jonsered 2040, and Stihl 021.  This is important if you are doing a lot
of cutting.

The fastest cutting are the Stihl 025C & Stihl Super Farm Boss 029, and
Husqvarna 345 & 350.  They also have the greatest kickback.  They are
probably the ones to avoid.

The best handling are the Stihl 025C and 021, Echo CS-4400, and Jonsered
2040.  This is a combination of good balance and low weight.

The easiest to service is the Stihl 018C.

The best buys are the Craftsman Red Chassis 35038 and Craftsman Gray
Chassis 35046.  They are the least expensive and the safest with the
least kickback but still good cutting speed.

Another good buy is the Stihl 018C, but it has a little more kickback
then the Craftsman saws.

These are all good saws and you won't go wrong with any of them.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Posted by Koi-ichi on February 21, 2005, 3:32 pm
 wrote:
And what do you  have to support your statements......

Been dealin g iwith chainsaws all my life and this is a new one  on
me. Are you perhaps talking about a bow type bar........

I have a hard time buying this

Why do they have more kickback than any other saw........engine /
chain speed........they all use asymetrical bars and anti kick back
chain, use a saw properly and its not a problem.

Still what do you base this advice on......Ehco is pityfull when it
comes to getting repair parts and their eco  carbs are poor in design
and dependability. Theya re about the only manuf that has yet to
figure out how to make a decent or even half assed fixed jet
carb......Stihl 025 models run at much higher rpms, wear much fsater
and is a hyped up piece of junk copared to a Husky of equal engine
size..........

Also pretty pricey in regards to parts and such

Just buy the Green ones made by Poulan, its the same saw at a lesser
price and carries the same warranty, and the same identical piece of
junk

As concerned about kickback as you are with these saws I think you
would be well advised to stay away from ANY chainsaw.

And I assume you have one of each so you can make these comparisons,
as all are consumer grade saws, not a saw a professional would choose
for daily use by any means.

Go to a local dealer be it Stihl, Husky, or even Poulan.See what fits
you the best, how the dealer treats you, his shop and service area ask
for a demo / test........see about references with satisfied
customers....tell  him exactly what yur use is going to
be...........its the dealer that will make or break you not the
saw........Odds are you will not go wrong with most Stihls, Husky or
Jonsered. They all kick back and there is no such thing as a safer or
lesser kick back as comared to another, there is reduced kickback but
its still kickback. Learn to use a saw properly and always treat it as
a potential for kickback without any regards to what safety
implemntations may or may  not be on it. No one saw is safer than
another, and usually the main reason some of the smaller saws cut
quicker is higher chain and engine speeds, as they are gutless at
lower rpms........Big saws better designed engines do not have to
necessarily run at these h igh speeds to cut fast........are you in
production or running a race in regards to how fast a saw can cut.They
all cut with a sharp chain and proper use and care.........and the
difference  in what one and the  other can cut is so minimal its not
an issue.

Posted by Stephen Henning on February 21, 2005, 5:01 pm
 1e@hotmail.com (Koi-ichi) wrote:


They are called brush bars.  Bow bars are similar.  Mine is made by
Homelite.  They were more popular in the west.  I used them when I was
working for the Forest Service in the Cascade Mountains and decided I
wanted one for myself.  The local dealer here in PA had no trouble
getting one for me.  They are longer than a bow bar and designed to cut
brush off at the base.  You can cut things off at ground level.  You can
also cut small trees down with the tip of a brush bar.  They have an
anti-kickback bar on the tip.  They are especially useful when cutting
brush and smaller diameter trees off close to the ground.


For the same reason they cut faster.  They have a more aggressive
design.  Other saws cut almost as fast and are safer to use.  Kick back
is more of a problem with a longer bar.  Most of todays saws just have
short bars.  I personally grew up around chain saws, but todays
purchases are usually made by homeowners who have never used one and
have received no training on how to use one properly. I would never
recommend they use anything but the safest available that does a good
job.  We have chain saw shops that provide lessons, but places like Home
Depot and Lowes just hand you a box and you are on your own.

Talking about using chain saws for a long time.  One of the first chain
saws I used was a two man Mercury saw.  The man on the tip of the bar
was the oiler and controlled the cutting end of the saw.  The operator
had a two handed handle bar and controlled the 2-cylinder 4-cycle
engine.  The Mercury saws used engines similar to Mercury outboard
motors.  They were heavy but could cut down a 12' diameter Douglas Fir.  
They had an awful lot of teeth to sharpen.  We usually left a chain in
our maintenance shop and took a sharpened chain out each day.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman