When to plant for fall crops?

 I would like to put in some late cabbages and potatoes (and maybe a few root
veggies) for fall crops. I live in the mid Willamette Valley, south of Salem
Oregon. Does anyone know when I should actually plant cabbages? The only
info I could find was to plant "during the heat of mid-summer". That is a
big fuzzy - I'm guessing towards the end of August?

And, how about potatoes? Is August too late to plant them for fall/winter
crop?

 Ook wrote:

Here (south-east NC) we have been known to plant as late as the end of
Aug, first part of Sept, for our fall/winter harvest.  Of course,
normally it doesn't drop below freezing (or even get to freezing temps)
until mid-Dec.

Usually, we plant our fall crops (peas, peas, and more peas & some
cabbage) whenever the summer squash & cukes play-out. (till them in and
replant in those areas) Collards & turnips are usually our winter crop.
  We have re-planted potatoes in Aug last year (not sure what part, that
part of the year was a blur for me, was caring for my grandpa then), but
they didn't fair as well as spring crop potatoes did.

Of course, you never really know til you try it, i guess....

 On Jul 27, 6:15 pm, "Ook" <Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at
zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin' spam> wrote:

If I recall, the Willametter Valley is hills/valleys?
So there is the microclimate influence: south and west slopes vs
east  and north slopes and so on. If you could locate your local
Cooperative Extension Service, they could give you specific
information.
Emilie

 Craig said:

This is an old tip that I've never had the occasion to test directly (but I
will comment more after):

Drive a small spade down in one or two spots  around one of your
plants and cut a few roots.  This might shock the plant into ripening
the tomatoes.

OK, this year one of the new varieties I was trying was not ripening any
tomatoes, not even a hint of color, even after all the others were doing
so.  It was so full of green tomatoes that the stake was leaning over
threatening to crash into the fence. (I have electric wires at the top so
this would have been a Bad Thing.)   I drove in a couple of small stakes
to tie off the larger one and stop the leaning.  And shortly after that, a
whole bunch of tomatoes on that plant started turning red.

 Now, I would think this was entirely coincidental, except for having
remembered that old advice.  So I may have unintentionally confirmed it
works.  Or, maybe not.  I doubt it would hurt to try.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)
  
Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)

 On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 18:15:38 -0700, "Ook" <Ook Don't send me any
freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin'
spam> wrote:


Compliments of Wiliam Wagner in msg id:

Late Planting Guide From Seed
From an Old Organic Magazine

Frost date is Oct 15  Last frost May 15

Your dates may differ due to your climate

July 4 100 days till Oct 15

Frost tender

85 days Snap Beans  by July 25
97 days Corn  by July 4
86 days Cucumbers by July 25
110 days Tomatoes  by June 25
81 ays Squash by Aug 1


Survive Light Frost

90 days Cauliflower   by July 25
84 days Chinese Cabbage by July 25
74 days Beets  by Aug 15
113 days Endive  by June 25
63 days Kohlrabi  by Aug 30
76 days Loose Leaf Lettuce by Aug 1r
96 days Head Lettuce by July 4
70 days Peas by Aug 15

Survive Heavy Frost

99 days Cabbage by July 4
85 days Carrots by July 25
70 days Chard by Aug 15
90 days Collards by July 4
95 days Broccoli by July 4
120 days Brussels Sprouts by June 15
95 days Kale by July 4
42 days Radishes Summer by Sept 5
72  days  Radishes Winter by Aug 15
64 days Spinach by Aug 25
51 days Turnips by Sept 15


HTH
Charlie