Posted by symplastless on December 24, 2007, 6:03 pm
Good question.
The element sulfur would lower pH. However it keeps reverting back.
You could add pine needles.
Two good articles of pH:
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html
In Fact I just searched for pH and found it to be mentioned in most of these
article.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/index.html
--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
> Hi,
> Just a quick one.
> I know how to increase the soils PH. But what do i add to bring it
> down.
> Thanks Mark
> --
> CORVIDSTATION61
Posted by Stephen Henning on December 26, 2007, 9:36 pm
> The element sulfur would lower pH. However it keeps reverting back.
Actually elemental sulfur is very slow acting and lasts quite a while,
but should be built up slightly every couple years in smaller doses.
Its advantage is that it can provide a very strong effect if needed by
applying more.
> You could add pine needles.
Pine needles and oak leaves work, but they rot and need to be
replenished annually. They are rather weak and can't be used to make
too large a change.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net
Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html
Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
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Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6
Posted by symplastless on December 27, 2007, 9:24 pm
>> The element sulfur would lower pH. However it keeps reverting back.
> Actually elemental sulfur is very slow acting and lasts quite a while,
> but should be built up slightly every couple years in smaller doses.
> Its advantage is that it can provide a very strong effect if needed by
> applying more.
>> You could add pine needles.
> Pine needles and oak leaves work, but they rot and need to be
> replenished annually. They are rather weak and can't be used to make
> too large a change.
Yes but you are feeding the soil. that is huge!!!!!!! Some composted wood
chips for calcium and such would be nice.
See Trouble in the Rhizpsphere for starters.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html
A suggestion by the late Alex L. Shigo -Rather than through leaves away,
why not put them into biodegradable lace-like bags, and use them for flowers
and garden mulch. Add a little fertilizer and by the next season the leaves
will be gone and the soil will be much better.
--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
Posted by symplastless on December 27, 2007, 9:30 pm
here are some more words on mulch
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/HTMLFILES/mulch_AAA-2.html
--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
>> The element sulfur would lower pH. However it keeps reverting back.
> Actually elemental sulfur is very slow acting and lasts quite a while,
> but should be built up slightly every couple years in smaller doses.
> Its advantage is that it can provide a very strong effect if needed by
> applying more.
>> You could add pine needles.
> Pine needles and oak leaves work, but they rot and need to be
> replenished annually. They are rather weak and can't be used to make
> too large a change.
> --
> Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to rhodyman@earthlink.net
> Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
> http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html
> Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
> http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html
> Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6
Posted by Tad on December 28, 2007, 1:56 pm
On Dec 22, 1:55 pm, CORVIDSTATION61
> Hi,
> Just a quick one.
> I know how to increase the soils PH. But what do i add to bring it
> down.
> Thanks Mark
> --
> CORVIDSTATION61
Why not add biology and let nature fix the pH for you? I would use
compost tea personally before adding a bunch of other chemicals or
minerals to your soil. What was the pH again and what do you want it
to be? Why is it too high in the first place?
> Just a quick one.
> I know how to increase the soils PH. But what do i add to bring it
> down.
> Thanks Mark
> --
> CORVIDSTATION61