Posted by Steve B on August 16, 2011, 1:02 pm
The location of my garden is on rock. On caliche. I could pick another
spot, but this one is convenient, and another would be much farther from the
house.
Digging down more than a foot or so hits caliche. This presents a problem
in that it is impenetrable by roots, and water runs off it.
I want to do a greenhouse, and do some raised beds, both for convenience,
and easier on the back. But what about the floor? If I were to frame up a
concrete pony wall, say one foot high and then fill the floor with good
composted soil, is one foot or slightly more enough for the roots of most
gardens? I could then use that pony wall as the base for a greenhouse. I
know I would have to watch the water so as not to soak the soil.
TIA
Steve
Posted by John McGaw on August 17, 2011, 8:48 am
On 8/16/2011 1:02 PM, Steve B wrote:
> The location of my garden is on rock. On caliche. I could pick another
> spot, but this one is convenient, and another would be much farther from the
> house.
> Digging down more than a foot or so hits caliche. This presents a problem
> in that it is impenetrable by roots, and water runs off it.
> I want to do a greenhouse, and do some raised beds, both for convenience,
> and easier on the back. But what about the floor? If I were to frame up a
> concrete pony wall, say one foot high and then fill the floor with good
> composted soil, is one foot or slightly more enough for the roots of most
> gardens? I could then use that pony wall as the base for a greenhouse. I
> know I would have to watch the water so as not to soak the soil.
> TIA
> Steve
In most of the Las Vegas area (where I lived) caliche was a fact of life
and people managed to plant things successfully by the expedient of
breaking up the caliche, correcting the myriad problems with the soil (OK,
so what was there couldn't even be called soil), and then going at it with
usual gardening practices (with addition of shade structures and
irrigation). In the old days I'm told that dynamite planting of trees was
considered normal. Later heavy equipment and cheap labor from down south
were the solution.
Posted by Steve B on August 17, 2011, 2:01 pm
> On 8/16/2011 1:02 PM, Steve B wrote:
>> The location of my garden is on rock. On caliche. I could pick another
>> spot, but this one is convenient, and another would be much farther from
>> the
>> house.
>>
>> Digging down more than a foot or so hits caliche. This presents a
>> problem
>> in that it is impenetrable by roots, and water runs off it.
>>
>> I want to do a greenhouse, and do some raised beds, both for convenience,
>> and easier on the back. But what about the floor? If I were to frame up
>> a
>> concrete pony wall, say one foot high and then fill the floor with good
>> composted soil, is one foot or slightly more enough for the roots of most
>> gardens? I could then use that pony wall as the base for a greenhouse.
>> I
>> know I would have to watch the water so as not to soak the soil.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
> In most of the Las Vegas area (where I lived) caliche was a fact of life
> and people managed to plant things successfully by the expedient of
> breaking up the caliche, correcting the myriad problems with the soil (OK,
> so what was there couldn't even be called soil), and then going at it with
> usual gardening practices (with addition of shade structures and
> irrigation). In the old days I'm told that dynamite planting of trees was
> considered normal. Later heavy equipment and cheap labor from down south
> were the solution.
At least here, the caliche seems to come in layers, the widest about 12".
So, one can dig a hole, 3x the diameter of the rootball, and go deep. If
they can punch through the layer, there will be drainage. Otherwise, you're
just making a bowl, and most stuff rots or drowns.
I lived in Vegas for a very long time, and am familiar with caliche. It
ain't bad if you hit a layered deposit, or just run into the edge of one
where it breaks up reasonably easy. But if you're the lucky guy who lands
on top of a big deposit, it is pure d hell.
Steve
--
Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide
Now on facebook, too.
Posted by Freebird11 on August 24, 2011, 4:49 am
An informal design is most effective, and simplicity is very important.
Unless the area is quite large, avoid the use of excessive numbers of
plants or elaborate rock formations. The most desirable location is a
steep bank that may be available at the back or side of the property.A
pool of water or a miniature stream and waterfall will add charm to the
rock garden. Trees are desirable to provide partial shade, and shrubs
should be used for background. If adequate space is available, the
garden may include paths made with flat stones or pine needles and steps
on steep slopes to encourage closer inspection and greater
enjoyment.Plan the rock garden for easy maintenance. The most attractive
ones are usually so wide you cannot reach to the center to remove
undesirable weeds, prune plants, or set out new species. A sufficient
number of large flat or rounded stones should be present to serve as a
place to walk or stand while doing maintenance jobs in the garden. These
must be deeply imbedded to provide secure footing as you work.A rock
garden should express the creative ability of the gardener to use the
terrain and plant materials that are available. Each garden should be a
unique development and not a reproduction of one that has been observed
on other residential or public property.
'Steve B[_6_ Wrote:
> ;933299']"John McGaw" Nobody@Nowh.ere wrote in message
> On 8/16/2011 1:02 PM, Steve B wrote:-
> The location of my garden is on rock. On caliche. I could pick
> another
> spot, but this one is convenient, and another would be much farther
> from
> the
> house.
>
> Digging down more than a foot or so hits caliche. This presents a
> problem
> in that it is impenetrable by roots, and water runs off it.
>
> I want to do a greenhouse, and do some raised beds, both for
> convenience,
> and easier on the back. But what about the floor? If I were to frame
> up
> a
> concrete pony wall, say one foot high and then fill the floor with
> good
> composted soil, is one foot or slightly more enough for the roots of
> most
> gardens? I could then use that pony wall as the base for a greenhouse.
>
> I
> know I would have to watch the water so as not to soak the soil.
>
> TIA
>
> Steve
>
> -
>
> In most of the Las Vegas area (where I lived) caliche was a fact of
> life
> and people managed to plant things successfully by the expedient of
> breaking up the caliche, correcting the myriad problems with the soil
> (OK,
> so what was there couldn't even be called soil), and then going at it
> with
> usual gardening practices (with addition of shade structures and
> irrigation). In the old days I'm told that dynamite planting of trees
> was
> considered normal. Later heavy equipment and cheap labor from down
> south
> were the solution.-
>
> At least here, the caliche seems to come in layers, the widest about
> 12".
> So, one can dig a hole, 3x the diameter of the rootball, and go deep.
> If
> they can punch through the layer, there will be drainage. Otherwise,
> you're
> just making a bowl, and most stuff rots or drowns.
>
> I lived in Vegas for a very long time, and am familiar with caliche. It
>
> ain't bad if you hit a layered deposit, or just run into the edge of one
>
> where it breaks up reasonably easy. But if you're the lucky guy who
> lands
> on top of a big deposit, it is pure d hell.
>
> Steve
>
> --
>
>
> Heart surgery pending?
> 'CABG Bypass Surgery' (http://tinyurl.com/3njxxh5 )
> Heart Surgery Survival Guide
> Now on facebook, too.
--
Freebird11
Posted by rgrdsprashant on August 25, 2011, 8:27 am
Some homeowners design rock gardens to exploit rocky slopes in their
yards. Others, like me, import rocks into yards that are flat and
rockless; we need stronger backs, but the effort is well worth it.
Another consideration that can influence the design of rock gardens is
space. I am allotting but a small space for my rock garden. In larger
spaces, the goal is often to create sprawling, naturalistic rock
gardens. But given my space restrictions, I'm contenting myself with
what amounts to a round raised bed made of select rocks. This design
fits neatly into the nook I have chosen for it. My small rock garden
won't be in the way when I mow my lawn, nor will it require much
maintenance.
Yet a third design consideration is color. I have a collection of
attractive red sandstone pieces; they will provide the structure for my
rock garden. In turn, this choice will influence my plant selection. I
want a color scheme that will work well with the red sandstone. I would
like some plants with a hint of red in them, but also some plants
displaying silver, yellow and white.
The sandstone with which I'm working is hardly the most durable of
materials. Indeed, many of the pieces are crumbly, well on their way to
becoming soil! But beauty was my goal, not longevity.
Rock gardens normally achieve some elevation above the surrounding
ground. In this case, that means laying a first course of rocks and
soil, then building upon it. In Step 2 I lay the first course....
--
rgrdsprashant
> spot, but this one is convenient, and another would be much farther from the
> house.
> Digging down more than a foot or so hits caliche. This presents a problem
> in that it is impenetrable by roots, and water runs off it.
> I want to do a greenhouse, and do some raised beds, both for convenience,
> and easier on the back. But what about the floor? If I were to frame up a
> concrete pony wall, say one foot high and then fill the floor with good
> composted soil, is one foot or slightly more enough for the roots of most
> gardens? I could then use that pony wall as the base for a greenhouse. I
> know I would have to watch the water so as not to soak the soil.
> TIA
> Steve