Citrus/Fruit Tree food

 
Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food.

I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago
and would like to utilize it for something other than
Citrus and Fruit Tree.  But what?

I now have only one Citrus -- a  big old lemon tree which
doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit
(chronic whitefly notwithstanding)..

Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot.

So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula.
What else can I use it for?

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3,  can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
   Glomus Intraradices
   Glomus Mosseae
   Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

 On 9/15/2007 10:10 AM, Persephone wrote:

Gardenias thrive on citrus food, as would most acid-loving plants.
However, it tends to be too strong for azaleas and camellias, both of
which actually prefer a lean soil (i.e., low in nutrients).

As for your other fruit trees, they were all stone fruits.  That is,
they were all in the genus Prunus.  This is a group that is relatively
short-lived.  The peach in my garden is my second in 34 years and is in
decline.

--
David E. Ross
Climate:  California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening pages at <http://www.rossde.com/garden/>

 Craig said:

This is an old tip that I've never had the occasion to test directly (but I
will comment more after):

Drive a small spade down in one or two spots  around one of your
plants and cut a few roots.  This might shock the plant into ripening
the tomatoes.

OK, this year one of the new varieties I was trying was not ripening any
tomatoes, not even a hint of color, even after all the others were doing
so.  It was so full of green tomatoes that the stake was leaning over
threatening to crash into the fence. (I have electric wires at the top so
this would have been a Bad Thing.)   I drove in a couple of small stakes
to tie off the larger one and stop the leaning.  And shortly after that, a
whole bunch of tomatoes on that plant started turning red.

 Now, I would think this was entirely coincidental, except for having
remembered that old advice.  So I may have unintentionally confirmed it
works.  Or, maybe not.  I doubt it would hurt to try.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)
  
Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)

 On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:32:40 -0400, "symplastless"

[...]

Thank you very much for that detailed analysis. Very interesting.

I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to
which I can put the leftover formula.  Below is the original post:

===========================================

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3,  can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
   Glomus Intraradices
   Glomus Mosseae
   Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

 Persephone writes:


Well, it is a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.  Has a number of
microorganisms intended to be beneficial in it (not sure whether I'd
trust them to be alive anymore, especially given how old it is, but
that's probably neither here nor there).  I don't really know much
about most of the metals and such (in terms of whether those numbers
are big or small, and what it means).

You can probably use it on almost anything, except a plant that you
want to flower or fruit in the near future (for those, it is too
nitrogen-rich).  If in doubt, be cautious about how much you apply
(for example, dilute it beyond the directions on the label).

I don't know, were you hoping for a more specific answer?  There's
bound to be at least some trial and error with this kind of thing, but
the main way you are likely to damage your plants is if you apply a
large quantity of some concentrated thing (and 7-3-3 is only
moderately strong, as fertilizers go).

(I don't think symplastless's response has made it to my news server,
so my apologies if I'm duplicating or whatever).