Bleeding cuts -- Dogwood

 I see on Google that Dogwoods are free-bleeders.  OK.

I made several pruning cuts on a dogwood yesterday.  I went by it this
morning and it is dripping from all of them.  Most of all from the end of a
pruned branch less than 1" diameter.

The dogwood leaves have already turned red --  the temp is still running
lower 50s to lower 70s (zone 7a).

Should I wait until winter is here to continue pruning the dogwood or just
ignore the bleeding?


FACE

 

Wait until the tree is fully dormant - after complete leafdrop and couple of
hard frosts. FWIW, I'd avoid ANY excess pruning on a dogwood - they do not
appreciate it and generally respond with unattractive medusa-like growths of
multiple shoots at most pruning cuts. Limit pruning to removal of dead or
diseased wood or conflicting branches. And if the tree is infected with
anthracnose to any degree, pruning tends to exacerbate the development of
the disease.

pam - gardengal

 in rec.gardens wrote:


Thank you.


I did not plant the tree at it's present position 10 feet from the corner of
the house but it is in the yard of a house I have had 8 years and was
planted by the previous owner.

I have seen the medusa-like growths at the end of pruned dogwood branches.
Not aesthetically pleasing to be sure. :-)
However, since the tree has outgrown it's location, I am looking at removing
it entirely or bringing it into conformity with the yard-size.  As an
experiment, i choose the latter.  

Another dogwood in the neighborhood has been done the same way.  I noticed
the other day that the leaves are growing directly off of the main branches.

I took note of your comments on the possibility of disease attacking it
after pruned.  Literally most dogwoods in this area succumbed to a blight
some 18 or so years ago, so most are younger than that. This one is not near
other dogwoods and the closest possible infectee is a bradford pear some 25
feet away -- another that I gave $2 for before K-Mart threw it in the
dumpster. I know of the brittleness of that tree, besides it's
susceptibility to Southern Fire Blight, so i am not worried about it.
(I lost another Bradford pear ($40!) in another yard to Southern Fire Blight
as diagnosed by the now-effectively-defunct county extension service.)

My experiment with the dogwood (and others mentioned previously), like all
experiments, comes down to a binary situation -- it either works or it
doesn't.  Besides, if it does not survive it will be much easier to take
down. :-)

Since it is too tall for it's position, I will be making a crown cut, what
shape should that be?  Or should I cover the wound?


Thanks for your input, it is appreciated,


FACE <stubborn old git that I am....but loveable>

 

running

removing

branches.

If you must prune it, shape to form a gently rounded or domed canopy. No
sealers - allow the tree to heal the wounds on its own. Make clean sharp
cuts at growth nodes or where smaller branches emerge from larger ones.
Don't leave stubs.

And just because there is no evidence of dogwood anthracnose in the
immediate vicinity does not mean your tree will not contract it. They are
not sure exactly what vectors the fungus but its presence is very
widespread. Stressed trees will be highly susceptible and yours will
certainly fit into that category if you embark on a major pruning project.

pam - gardengal

 
Has anyone heard the old advice that when pruning a tree or shrub, rub the
wound with your thumb and fingers; supposedly the natural oils from the hands
help the tree seal its wounds and discourage entry from predators or disease.

~flick