Wilting Zukes

   Went outta town for a few days , while we were gone the gkids and their
mom watered for me . A couple of my zucchini plants have an unexplained
wilting of leaves - and one has died , but it was weak to begin with . I'm
pretty sure they didn't water enough to let it soak deep like I do , but
most of the rest of my  plants - and all the cantalopes - are still doing
well .
  One thing , the plant that is wilting he most has a zuke about 6" long
growing . Can that increase the water required that much ? I watered
everything well yesterday , let the hose run slow and moved it around until
everything is deeply soaked . This morning the leaves are still wilted ...

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

 wrote:


Not a good sign. Do you check the soil for dampness before you water?
How often and long do you water? Any chance the zuch drowned? Do you
have insects that look like this
<http://www.vegedge.umn.edu/vegpest/cucs/squabug.htm>  ?
--
- Billy

Mad dog Republicans to the right. Democratic spider webs to the left. True
conservatives, and liberals not to be found anywhere in the phantasmagoria
of the American political landscape.

America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash.
It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the
greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks
and the portfolios of the uber-rich.
<http://www.politifact.com/wisconsin/statements/2011/mar/10/michael-moore
/michael-moore-says-400-americans-have-more-wealth-/>

 Billy wrote:

  Yes , I let it dry down an inch or two before watering .


  I water when the soil is dry an inch or two deep . And I water until it's
soaked a few inches deep . I want to make sure I encourage the roots to go
deep .


  Nope , see above . We've been having extremely hot/sunny weather here .


  Nope , the birds do a damn good job of keeping the bugs out .

  I suspect they just didn't water enough/deep enough , because the plants
seem to be recovering . All except the one that died ... as I said , we've
had a lot of really hot sunny weather here in Memphis Tn .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

 wrote:


If they are still wilted in the morning, I'd put up something to block
the hot afternoon's sun. I had to do that with some potted plants that I
separated from each other just before planting this year.

Let's just hope it's just one of those little mysteries of gardening,
and now it will go away.
--
- Billy

Mad dog Republicans to the right. Democratic spider webs to the left. True
conservatives, and liberals not to be found anywhere in the phantasmagoria
of the American political landscape.

America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash.
It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the
greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks
and the portfolios of the uber-rich.
<http://www.politifact.com/wisconsin/statements/2011/mar/10/michael-moore
/michael-moore-says-400-americans-have-more-wealth-/>

 


    'Tis the season for nematodes (root knot) and squash vine borers. Tender
"summer" squashes are highly susceptible to both, cantaloupe less so. Typically,
nematode infested plants will perk up quickly after watering but will quickly
wilt down, sometimes even later in the same day of watering. Borer infested
plants don't. The only sure way to diagnose either is inspection.
    I know of no effective natural control for squash vine borers. I guess
certain contact poisons might do. Down here in the south, we direct-seed as
early as possible (Feb-Mar, depending on overnight lows) in order to get a
useful crop before the borers hit. In cooler climes, greenhouse starts are often
used.
    The only effective chemical control of nematodes, of which I have any
knowledge, was removed from the  homeowner market years ago (and for good
reason). Based on my experience, I have concluded the use of marigolds and
solarization for nematode control to be mythical; YMMV. Although, "just in
case", I still plant marigolds amongst  particularly susceptible veggies such as
squash, okra, peppers, eggplant, I depend on periodic applications of
Steinernema feltiae, a "cannibalistic" nematode that does not seem to harm wasps
and other beneficial-to-me insects that have ground-dwelling instars. On the
downside, S. feltiae does exterminate (harmless) Rose chafer beetle larvae
(white "grubs"), often present in composted manure. See my sig for a reliable
source. Also, a quick web search will produce demonstrations that alternate-year
planting of curcurbits and N-resistant tomato hybrids significantly reduces
nematode populations.
--
Derald
FL USDA zone 9a
http://gardeningzone.com/product_info-Nematodes--Steinernema-feltiae--10-million.html