Topsoil or Compost?

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Topsoil or Compost? anthony123hopki 02-21-2010
|--> Re: Topsoil or Compost? David Hare-Scot...02-21-2010
Posted by anthony123hopki on February 21, 2010, 5:51 am
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Hi

I am preparing my raised beds for some early spring sowing. I put in
some manure
a few months ago. Over the last year or so the beds have
really settled down and
so there is plenty of room to add more to them.


I was wondering if it is better to add pure compost or topsoil or a mix
of both.
Does pure compost have all the nutrients a vegetable needs, and
do the nutrients
last very long, or is topsoil longer lasting? Also,
what is a "soil improver"?

My soil is tending towards to clay side of things.

Thanks for any advice.




--
anthony123hopki

Posted by David Hare-Scott on February 21, 2010, 5:11 pm
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anthony123hopki wrote:
> Hi
>
> I am preparing my raised beds for some early spring sowing. I put in
> some manure a few months ago. Over the last year or so the beds have
> really settled down and so there is plenty of room to add more to
> them.
>
>
> I was wondering if it is better to add pure compost or topsoil or a
> mix of both. Does pure compost have all the nutrients a vegetable
> needs, and do the nutrients last very long, or is topsoil longer
> lasting? Also, what is a "soil improver"?
>
> My soil is tending towards to clay side of things.
>
> Thanks for any advice.

It depends on the composition of what is there and how much you need to add.
If what is there is still heavy, tends to set hard and has low organic
matter add compost or manure. If it is friable and has good organic matter
but needs to be topped up quite a bit add topsoil or topsoil and
compost/manure. If it just needs a bit add compost/manure.

Whether pure compost has all the nutrients depends on its sources, it is
possible that it does but it is not certain. A compost made from just one
source probably is not complete. The time that the nutrients in any soil
last depends on the situation. The one thing that you can say about
gardening that is almost always true is "it depends".

This is a vry complex subject so I am skimming here. Nutrients do not last
long if they are lost quickly to the environment. The main method of loss
is running off when dissolved in water but evaporation can play a role too.
Run off happens more when nutients are present as very soluble compounds or
ions and when the soil has little capacity to bind them. Binding takes
place on the surface of colloids which are found in clays and in broken down
organic matter. It is not the source of the nutrients that determines how
long they last but the environment that they are in.

What you should be aiming for is balance in tilth and infiltration, and
retention of water and nutrients. Very sandy soil has little binding power,
pouring on chemferts will have only a short term effect, most of it will end
up in the nearest waterway helping the water plants to grow. Heavy clay has
much binding power but it is so impervious that there is no room for air and
plant roots and it takes ages for water and nutrients to infiltrate. A soil
that has a balance of clay, sand and organic matter is workable and can
carry nutrients, air and water. Such soil allows water to infiltrate and to
drain away reasonably quickly but holds some.

David



Posted by George on February 24, 2010, 12:54 am
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>
> Hi
>
> I am preparing my raised beds for some early spring sowing. I put in
> some manure a few months ago. Over the last year or so the beds have
> really settled down and so there is plenty of room to add more to them.
>
>
> I was wondering if it is better to add pure compost or topsoil or a mix
> of both.

use whatever you have. Nicely broken down and crumbly compost is fine. Top
soil is good. If you have both. mix them together and use. There is no exact
science as far as I am aware. The manure you set down should supply a decent
amount of nutrients. Compost or topsoil will have other nutrients. The key
is to keep on adding every year of so composted manure or compost to keep
nutrient levels up. What you have sounds fine. If things do not work out do
some investigation then to determine what the problem may be.

A soil improver is basically organic matter is whatever form (compost,
manure, leaf mould etc) that is worked in to the soil to 'improve' the soil.
That is, a soil rich with decayed organic matter is better than a soil with
little decayed organic matter.

I have a heap of organic matter ibn my raised gardens andn it works for me.
I obsessed for a couple of years about putting it in to the soil. Having
seen that things work ok without my obsession, I just add the inputs & let
the plants get on with growing.

rob


Posted by Suzanne D. on February 24, 2010, 4:33 am
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> I have a heap of organic matter ibn my raised gardens andn it works for
> me. I obsessed for a couple of years about putting it in to the soil.
> Having seen that things work ok without my obsession, I just add the
> inputs & let the plants get on with growing.

I'm the same way. I just throw whatever I have available at any particular
time of year--whether that be old leaves, fresh grass clippings, pulled
weeds, or kitchen scraps--into the beds and let nature work it out. I do
pretty well that way.
--S.


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