> Billy wrote: > > > >> > >>> Billy wrote: > > <snip> > > > s of color pictures, but overall it > > seems to me to be mostly flash. > > > > Anyway, lasagna gardening, the above URL calls for 2 vertical ft. of > > mulch on the vegetable beds, mine are usually 3 - 4". Just make sure > > that there is always mulch, no matter how thick it is. If you are > > getting weeds, you'll probably want to increase the depth of the mulch. > > > I have an abundance of pine straw. My take is that this doesn't make > good compost as it breaks down slowly, but makes good mulch. > > http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0217335925165.html > > I'll get this started today, in the meantime I have an abundance of > green, and not much other brown. So, I'm thinking... We had at one time > a horse in the neighborhood (I live in Atlanta proper) and chickens > across the road (I now know why a chicken crosses the road: It doesn't > care). But the chickens are all long gone. > > I've had a long running compost pile at the dead end of my street > that leads to the woods. Unfortunately it now looks more like a garbage > dump, with shingles and all kinds of plastic tossed on. Sigh! Seems like > someone can always turn a good idea into hell. The reverse is not so easy. > > Sometimes I think I live here mostly for amusement. > > Jeff
Well, duh, I can hear the cosmic laughter from here ;O)
I don't see anything wrong with making conifers part of your mulch, but
remember that the soil flora and fauna are counting on the breakdown of
the mulch for nourishment, So, make sure that there is always some
leaves or straw in the mulch as well.
If you ever find a reference to pine needles lowering/not lowering pH,
I'd like to see it.
I have my blueberries planted next to a redwood stump. They don't seem
to be all that vigorous, but the soil should be fairly acidic. No, I
haven't checked the soil pH. Real men don't ask for directions, we wait
until we're out of gas ;O)
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
> >> Billy wrote: >>> >>>> >>>>> Billy wrote: >> <snip> >> >> >> s of color pictures, but overall it >>> seems to me to be mostly flash. >>> >>> Anyway, lasagna gardening, the above URL calls for 2 vertical ft. of >>> mulch on the vegetable beds, mine are usually 3 - 4". Just make sure >>> that there is always mulch, no matter how thick it is. If you are >>> getting weeds, you'll probably want to increase the depth of the mulch. >> >> I have an abundance of pine straw. My take is that this doesn't make >> good compost as it breaks down slowly, but makes good mulch. >> >> http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0217335925165.html >> >> I'll get this started today, in the meantime I have an abundance of >> green, and not much other brown. So, I'm thinking... We had at one time >> a horse in the neighborhood (I live in Atlanta proper) and chickens >> across the road (I now know why a chicken crosses the road: It doesn't >> care). But the chickens are all long gone. >> >> I've had a long running compost pile at the dead end of my street >> that leads to the woods. Unfortunately it now looks more like a garbage >> dump, with shingles and all kinds of plastic tossed on. Sigh! Seems like >> someone can always turn a good idea into hell. The reverse is not so easy. >> >> Sometimes I think I live here mostly for amusement. >> >> Jeff > > Well, duh, I can hear the cosmic laughter from here ;O) > > I don't see anything wrong with making conifers part of your mulch, but > remember that the soil flora and fauna are counting on the breakdown of > the mulch for nourishment, So, make sure that there is always some > leaves or straw in the mulch as well. > > If you ever find a reference to pine needles lowering/not lowering pH, > I'd like to see it.
It looks like a short term spike when they are composting:
The acidic conditions created by pine needles are only transitory. As
organic materials decompose, they typically cause an initial decrease in
pH (increase in acidity), but over time, the pH rises so that the
acidity of the composted material becomes near neutral.
Even if pine needles did not equilibrate to a near neutral pH, or if you
wanted to avoid that initial burst of acidity, you could still use them
in your compost pile with good effect.
Curious about pine needle Ph, I soaked some dry pine needles, put them
in the blender and checked the Ph. Around 6.5, which is the same as my
tap water. I run the mower over the dried needles and use them for
mulch. Pulling the mulch aside to top-dress with compost or whatever is
the only drawback. I do notice that the hostas mulched with pine needles
have less slug/snail damage. So it's a trade-off.
Most people and gardeners used to believe that pine needles and pine
bark will result in rendering garden soil acidic. And in general most
gardeners used to believe that any part of any coniferous tree will
subsequently be acidic.
However, in its raw state, all coniferous trees are not acidic. This
means that the pine needles that gardeners use to apply as mulch on top
of soil around a plant, or even in the planting hole will not alter the
pH of the garden soil. In fact it is only AFTER the pine needles have
been properly composted that it will result in changes in the pH of your
garden soil.
Nowadays it is not surprising that the seasoned gardeners have found
that pine needles and pine bark do not break down into compost easily.
It is quite a lengthy process if you want to incorporate pine and pine
products into the ingredients of your compost recipe. This is thus also
the reason why pine needles and pine bark makes for excellent, good,
long, lasting mulch that will keep the soil moist and cool the roots of
plants.
This means that pine needles and pine bark is not great additives to use
as soil amendment when you want to alter the pH of your garden soil. You
would serve your garden far better by making use of good compost which
generally has an acid pH. Thus if you want to change the pH of your
soil, you should rather plant with a good compost or acidic peat.
If you need to lower the alkaline level of your garden soil to make your
soil more acidic then you should plant with plenty of good compost, or
use an acidic soil/compost mixture which has the advantage of composted
bark incorporated into the mixture.
> > I have my blueberries planted next to a redwood stump. They don't seem > to be all that vigorous, but the soil should be fairly acidic.
From what I gather you want to push it far. Mine seem as happy or
happier than anything I have and they are in peat.
No, I
> haven't checked the soil pH. Real men don't ask for directions, we wait > until we're out of gas ;O)
;O)
Jeff
Posted by Billy on May 24, 2010, 2:11 pm
> Billy wrote: > > > >> Billy wrote: > >>> > >>>> > >>>>> Billy wrote: > >> <snip> > >> > >> > >> s of color pictures, but overall it > >>> seems to me to be mostly flash. > >>> > >>> Anyway, lasagna gardening, the above URL calls for 2 vertical ft. of > >>> mulch on the vegetable beds, mine are usually 3 - 4". Just make sure > >>> that there is always mulch, no matter how thick it is. If you are > >>> getting weeds, you'll probably want to increase the depth of the mulch. > >> > >> I have an abundance of pine straw. My take is that this doesn't make > >> good compost as it breaks down slowly, but makes good mulch. > >> > >> http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0217335925165.html > >> > >> I'll get this started today, in the meantime I have an abundance of > >> green, and not much other brown. So, I'm thinking... We had at one time > >> a horse in the neighborhood (I live in Atlanta proper) and chickens > >> across the road (I now know why a chicken crosses the road: It doesn't > >> care). But the chickens are all long gone. > >> > >> I've had a long running compost pile at the dead end of my street > >> that leads to the woods. Unfortunately it now looks more like a garbage > >> dump, with shingles and all kinds of plastic tossed on. Sigh! Seems like > >> someone can always turn a good idea into hell. The reverse is not so easy. > >> > >> Sometimes I think I live here mostly for amusement. > >> > >> Jeff > > > > Well, duh, I can hear the cosmic laughter from here ;O) > > > > I don't see anything wrong with making conifers part of your mulch, but > > remember that the soil flora and fauna are counting on the breakdown of > > the mulch for nourishment, So, make sure that there is always some > > leaves or straw in the mulch as well. > > > > If you ever find a reference to pine needles lowering/not lowering pH, > > I'd like to see it. > > It looks like a short term spike when they are composting: > > http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/qa/pine-needles-compost.aspx > > The acidic conditions created by pine needles are only transitory. As > organic materials decompose, they typically cause an initial decrease in > pH (increase in acidity), but over time, the pH rises so that the > acidity of the composted material becomes near neutral. > > Even if pine needles did not equilibrate to a near neutral pH, or if you > wanted to avoid that initial burst of acidity, you could still use them > in your compost pile with good effect. > > http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/showthread.php?t 169 > > Curious about pine needle Ph, I soaked some dry pine needles, put them > in the blender and checked the Ph. Around 6.5, which is the same as my > tap water. I run the mower over the dried needles and use them for > mulch. Pulling the mulch aside to top-dress with compost or whatever is > the only drawback. I do notice that the hostas mulched with pine needles > have less slug/snail damage. So it's a trade-off. > > http://www.landscape-and-garden.com/garden-soil/inorganic-amendments.aspx > > Using Pine Needles and Pine Bark > > Most people and gardeners used to believe that pine needles and pine > bark will result in rendering garden soil acidic. And in general most > gardeners used to believe that any part of any coniferous tree will > subsequently be acidic. > > However, in its raw state, all coniferous trees are not acidic. This > means that the pine needles that gardeners use to apply as mulch on top > of soil around a plant, or even in the planting hole will not alter the > pH of the garden soil. In fact it is only AFTER the pine needles have > been properly composted that it will result in changes in the pH of your > garden soil. > > Nowadays it is not surprising that the seasoned gardeners have found > that pine needles and pine bark do not break down into compost easily. > It is quite a lengthy process if you want to incorporate pine and pine > products into the ingredients of your compost recipe. This is thus also > the reason why pine needles and pine bark makes for excellent, good, > long, lasting mulch that will keep the soil moist and cool the roots of > plants. > > This means that pine needles and pine bark is not great additives to use > as soil amendment when you want to alter the pH of your garden soil. You > would serve your garden far better by making use of good compost which > generally has an acid pH. Thus if you want to change the pH of your > soil, you should rather plant with a good compost or acidic peat. > > If you need to lower the alkaline level of your garden soil to make your > soil more acidic then you should plant with plenty of good compost, or > use an acidic soil/compost mixture which has the advantage of composted > bark incorporated into the mixture. > > > > I have my blueberries planted next to a redwood stump. They don't seem > > to be all that vigorous, but the soil should be fairly acidic. > > From what I gather you want to push it far. Mine seem as happy or > happier than anything I have and they are in peat. > > No, I > > haven't checked the soil pH. Real men don't ask for directions, we wait > > until we're out of gas ;O) > > ;O) > > Jeff
Typically, conifer forests have low pH soils, I suspect that I am
confusing cause with effect.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
On, c'mon. Clearly, when compared to the other religions that were
promulgated in the 20th Century, SFG is among the more innocuous.
Doctrinaire SFG cultists may shun and belittle apostates and
non-believers but, at least, they do no physical harm.
--
the Balvenieman
USDA zone 9b, peninsular Florida, U.S.A.
"You know what they say: Once you kill a cow,
You gotta make a burger" --Lady Gaga
> >
> >>
> >>> Billy wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>
> s of color pictures, but overall it
> > seems to me to be mostly flash.
> >
> > Anyway, lasagna gardening, the above URL calls for 2 vertical ft. of
> > mulch on the vegetable beds, mine are usually 3 - 4". Just make sure
> > that there is always mulch, no matter how thick it is. If you are
> > getting weeds, you'll probably want to increase the depth of the mulch.
>
>
> I have an abundance of pine straw. My take is that this doesn't make
> good compost as it breaks down slowly, but makes good mulch.
>
> http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0217335925165.html
>
> I'll get this started today, in the meantime I have an abundance of
> green, and not much other brown. So, I'm thinking... We had at one time
> a horse in the neighborhood (I live in Atlanta proper) and chickens
> across the road (I now know why a chicken crosses the road: It doesn't
> care). But the chickens are all long gone.
>
> I've had a long running compost pile at the dead end of my street
> that leads to the woods. Unfortunately it now looks more like a garbage
> dump, with shingles and all kinds of plastic tossed on. Sigh! Seems like
> someone can always turn a good idea into hell. The reverse is not so easy.
>
> Sometimes I think I live here mostly for amusement.
>
> Jeff