Reshaping an old cherry tree

 


Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can reshape a very old
(Victorian I
guess), very tall, sweet cherry tree - or alternatively
propagate from it. It's
too tall to pick the cherries without a hoist
(which I don't have) and too tall
to try airlayering as a means of
propagation. I would like to try to persuade
the tree to throw out some
new shoots below the current ones and above the
rootstock. Is there any
way of persuading the tree to do this?

I would also like to propagate from it. I have taken some softwood
cuttings now
- and will try to graft on to rootstocks in a few weeks.
Any tips as to the best
rootstocks and the best way of getting the
cuttings to take (e.g. should they
have bottom heat, be in a cloche,
etc)?
Thanks!




--
Ali_R

 

Ali_R wrote:

   I would go with the propagation choice.  You can progressively prune
   down this big tree over several seasons, but it's root structure will
   continue to put out lots of growth, thus an ongoing pruning job.

   There are several good dwarfing cherry rootstocks.  Cherries are
   commonly grafted onto Mazzard or Mahaleb rootstocks.  Another choice
   would be something in the Gisella family.  Krymsk 5 and 6 are newer
   Russian rootstocks, the later of these produces a dwarfing of 75%.

   You can do a bud graft in July or August.  I would recommend a chip
   bud graft as the most reliable and easy to do.  Less commonly done
   are whip and tongue grafts in the Spring of Cherry scion wood.  Be
   aware that in chip budding, the fresher the buds, the better the
   chances of a successful graft.  I would keep the grafted tree in
   a shady spot for a few weeks until the graft calouses over.  You
   can then either plant the tree, or better yet, keep it in a pot
   in a protected place for planting the following year.  You want to
   initially keep the graft union warm for calusing, but keeping the
   entire tree that way might encourage the rootstock to come out of
   dormancy prematurely, which will reduce the chances of a successful
   graft.

                           Sherwin

 

sherwin dubren wrote:


     I may have misled you on the after care of the graft.  I do most of
     my grafts in the Spring with whip and tongue and my suggestions on
     keeping the rootstock dormant were more for that kind of graft.
     For bud grafting, you want the rootstock to be active and leafed
     out.  You still should follow the other suggestions about protecting
     the graft and planting the  tree out.

     I should not do these replies late at night when my thinking is not
     as clear as I would like it to be.

                             Sherwin

 


sherwin dubren;855123 Wrote:

Thanks for these helpful suggestions - do you know where I can buy
these
rootstocks in the UK - I have not found any obvious sources on
the web




--
Ali_R

 


Be brave and cut the top off the tree.  Do it in spring when the sap has
started rising to prevent silver leaf.  You can often see old trees
being
regerated like this.  You will get new growths around and just
below the cut.




--
Hedgeman