Posted by Dwight Lassiter on November 16, 2009, 9:24 am
Thanks, that makes sense. Actually, it wasn't "topsoil", but that $4/
bag mix. Maybe "planting mix" instead of "potting mix"? Again, it
appears mostly organic stuff because it's fluffy when it comes out of
the bag, and for some weeks/months after using it. Would be a good
trick to take plain topsoil and make it look that way. Good point
about sand migrating downward in the pot. Had not thought of that.
Also, the shrinkage, which I figured would be an inconvenience, does
indeed have an advantage in removal from the pot.
I'm thinking peat moss is good for fluffing it up as well, but does
that break down rapidly enough that you'd end up with the same organic
glue at the end of a season?
Posted by Angello Huong on November 16, 2009, 6:48 pm
Peat moss is a pretty economical option (I think you can get a 2
cu.ft. brick of it for a couple of bucks) and will add fluffy-ness to
your slow-draining soil. It's also great at holding water--I think
it's able to retain about 20 times its weight in water. The down-side
it that it also adds a bit of acidity to the soil. Check the plant's
acidity tolerance levels before you do it. However, You can
counter-act the acidity by adding in some lime. I don't know about
how fast it breaks down though.
Another good option is to mix in composted manure. It'll add
nutrients while it decomposes and aereates the soil. The downside is
handling the odor if you are going to use it for indoor plants.
Angello
>Thanks, that makes sense. Actually, it wasn't "topsoil", but that $4/
>bag mix. Maybe "planting mix" instead of "potting mix"? Again, it
>appears mostly organic stuff because it's fluffy when it comes out of
>the bag, and for some weeks/months after using it. Would be a good
>trick to take plain topsoil and make it look that way. Good point
>about sand migrating downward in the pot. Had not thought of that.
>Also, the shrinkage, which I figured would be an inconvenience, does
>indeed have an advantage in removal from the pot.
>I'm thinking peat moss is good for fluffing it up as well, but does
>that break down rapidly enough that you'd end up with the same organic
>glue at the end of a season?
Posted by Dwight Lassiter on November 16, 2009, 9:27 pm
> Peat moss is a pretty economical option (I think you can get a 2
> cu.ft. brick of it for a couple of bucks) and will add fluffy-ness to
> your slow-draining soil. It's also great at holding water--I think
> it's able to retain about 20 times its weight in water. The down-side
> it that it also adds a bit of acidity to the soil. Check the plant's
> acidity tolerance levels before you do it. However, You can
> counter-act the acidity by adding in some lime. I don't know about
> how fast it breaks down though.
Well, then I'm good to go with peat moss. I have irrigation water that
is mildly alkaline. Water table is limestone based, which accounts for
that alkalinity. So whatever my planting mix is made of, it eventually
gets somewhat alkaline. Adding acidity is just the ticket.
Posted by gunner on November 17, 2009, 1:50 pm
>> Peat moss is a pretty economical option (I think you can get a 2
>> cu.ft. brick of it for a couple of bucks) and will add fluffy-ness to
>> your slow-draining soil. It's also great at holding water--I think
>> it's able to retain about 20 times its weight in water. The down-side
>> it that it also adds a bit of acidity to the soil. Check the plant's
>> acidity tolerance levels before you do it. However, You can
>> counter-act the acidity by adding in some lime. I don't know about
>> how fast it breaks down though.
>>
> Well, then I'm good to go with peat moss. I have irrigation water that
> is mildly alkaline. Water table is limestone based, which accounts for
> that alkalinity. So whatever my planting mix is made of, it eventually
> gets somewhat alkaline. Adding acidity is just the ticket.
You can use tree bark ( preferably a fine grade ) to break up that soil
mix. Like Peat, its acidic, but not as much, and decomposes slowly.
10-12 $ a 1/2 yard here.
Some of the Coir and Coco chip products are also a good admendment choice
for small applications. The coir is ~ 3$ a brick ( makes approx 8 liters).
Posted by Dwight Lassiter on November 30, 2009, 10:06 am
> I buy Perlite and Peat Moss to my black much also. The all organic
> stuff deteriorate so quickly that a level 5 gallon pot will sink 4
> inches in a season.
> If I had a choice between the two, pick Perlite. The peat will
> deteriorate also - the perlite will not.
> Jim in So. Calif.
Yes, that's what I assumed. Even the peat moss will eventually
decompose, though the stuff is fibrous enough that some structure may
remain. I just want some mix that will retain permeability for a few
seasons. Certainly true that perlite (or charcoal) should help with
that.
>bag mix. Maybe "planting mix" instead of "potting mix"? Again, it
>appears mostly organic stuff because it's fluffy when it comes out of
>the bag, and for some weeks/months after using it. Would be a good
>trick to take plain topsoil and make it look that way. Good point
>about sand migrating downward in the pot. Had not thought of that.
>Also, the shrinkage, which I figured would be an inconvenience, does
>indeed have an advantage in removal from the pot.
>I'm thinking peat moss is good for fluffing it up as well, but does
>that break down rapidly enough that you'd end up with the same organic
>glue at the end of a season?