> > In article > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Worth a look /try. > > > > > > > >http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx > > > > > > > But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) > > > > > and > > > > > that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've > > > > > never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato > > > > > like > > > > > Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days > > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato_orange.html > > > > > > > Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days > > > > > Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish > > > > > Dwarf: > > > > > 60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days, > > > > > Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days > > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato.html > > > > > > > Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green > > > > > Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 > > > > > days > > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato_small.html > > > > > > > Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom > > > > >http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx > > > > > > > -- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged > > > > > wetting of leaves. > > > > > -- Make sure to give plants space. > > > > > -- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry. > > > > > -- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the > > > > > fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a > > > > > plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them. > > > > > -- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a > > > > > 10-percent > > > > > bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the > > > > > equipment. > > > > > When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose > > > > > disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there > > > > > aren't > > > > > any. > > > > >http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorny/2009/07/tomato.html > > > > > > > Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in > > > > > Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and > > > > > Juliet > > > > > have some resistance to foliar late blight. Juliet also exhibited > > > > > some > > > > > resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani). > > > > >http://www.extension.org/article/18361 > > > > > > > What to do if you think you have late blight > > > > > The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make > > > > > certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the > > > > > University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to > > > > > make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made, > > > > > then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic > > > > > bag > > > > > should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without > > > > > a > > > > > living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants > > > > > that > > > > > were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled > > > > > because > > > > > there is a very high probability that they will also be infected. > > > > > Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will > > > > > potentially > > > > > save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause > > > > > the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also > > > > > have > > > > > an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your > > > > > neighbours' > > > > > crops. > > > > > <http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Default.aspx?DN=d026b209-36bd-4aa6-a > > > > > eff > > > > > -7e3da663f585> > > > > > > Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter. > > > > > >http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20My ... > > > > files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf > > > > > I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does > > > nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience > > > with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most > > > wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and > > > now to ozone). > > > <http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://bpsommelier.b > > > logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_& > > > sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&vedBoQ7gEwBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt > > > richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3DX%26rls%3Den> > > > > > In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners > > > work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to > > > have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I > > > would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after > > > sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled. > > > > Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of sorts but I > > thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution > > as you cut. Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. I just keep > > em sharp and oil when they may need it. > > Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I > > believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the > > same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest > > and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come > > back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean. > > The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are > > essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens. > > > Harmony, I don't think so, nature is about disease and massive > extinction as the norm, tomatoes are not native to the USA for a > reason, they are bred to taste good to humans, it does havoc to their > survival abilities though. Hybrids are the extreme, their destiny is > to go extinct in one season by design, you want a all natural fool > proof tomato plant that lives in harmony with nature? it's fruit will > probably taste like a potato! and bear 1/10 the fruit. Modern tomato > plants are like most modern milk cows and dogs, they would never > survive in the wild without massive human support system behind them.
--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
<http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending>
Posted by Billy on March 11, 2010, 4:51 pm
In article
> > In article > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Worth a look /try. > > > > > > > >http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx > > > > > > > But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) > > > > > and > > > > > that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've > > > > > never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato > > > > > like > > > > > Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days > > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato_orange.html > > > > > > > Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days > > > > > Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish > > > > > Dwarf: > > > > > 60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days, > > > > > Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days > > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato.html > > > > > > > Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green > > > > > Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 > > > > > days > > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato_small.html > > > > > > > Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom > > > > >http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx > > > > > > > -- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged > > > > > wetting of leaves. > > > > > -- Make sure to give plants space. > > > > > -- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry. > > > > > -- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the > > > > > fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a > > > > > plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them. > > > > > -- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a > > > > > 10-percent > > > > > bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the > > > > > equipment. > > > > > When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose > > > > > disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there > > > > > aren't > > > > > any. > > > > >http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorny/2009/07/tomato.html > > > > > > > Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in > > > > > Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and > > > > > Juliet > > > > > have some resistance to foliar late blight. Juliet also exhibited > > > > > some > > > > > resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani). > > > > >http://www.extension.org/article/18361 > > > > > > > What to do if you think you have late blight > > > > > The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make > > > > > certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the > > > > > University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to > > > > > make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made, > > > > > then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic > > > > > bag > > > > > should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without > > > > > a > > > > > living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants > > > > > that > > > > > were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled > > > > > because > > > > > there is a very high probability that they will also be infected. > > > > > Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will > > > > > potentially > > > > > save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause > > > > > the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also > > > > > have > > > > > an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your > > > > > neighbours' > > > > > crops. > > > > > <http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Default.aspx?DN=d026b209-36bd-4aa6-a > > > > > eff > > > > > -7e3da663f585> > > > > > > Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter. > > > > > >http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20My ... > > > > files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf > > > > > I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does > > > nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience > > > with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most > > > wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and > > > now to ozone). > > > <http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://bpsommelier.b > > > logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_& > > > sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&vedBoQ7gEwBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt > > > richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3DX%26rls%3Den> > > > > > In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners > > > work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to > > > have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I > > > would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after > > > sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled. > > > > Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of sorts but I > > thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution > > as you cut. Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. I just keep > > em sharp and oil when they may need it. > > Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I > > believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the > > same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest > > and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come > > back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean. > > The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are > > essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens. > > > Harmony, I don't think so, nature is about disease
Symbiosis: interaction between two different organisms living in close
physical association, typically to the advantage of both.
> and massive > extinction as the norm,
In the past 540 million years there have been five major events when
over 50% of animal species died.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extinction_event
Five events in 540 million years don't seem like a norm.
> tomatoes are not native to the USA for a > reason,
Undocumented fruits?
> they are bred to taste good to humans,
Maybe, once upon a time. These days they are mostly grown for cosmetic
qualities and durability in shipping.
> it does havoc to their > survival abilities though. Hybrids are the extreme, their destiny is > to go extinct in one season by design,
Maybe in one generation, but not necessarily in one season.
Indeterminate types are "tender" perennials, dying annually in temperate
climates (they are originally native to tropical highlands), although
they can live up to three years in a greenhouse in some cases.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomatoes
> you want a all natural fool > proof tomato plant that lives in harmony with nature? it's fruit will > probably taste like a potato! and bear 1/10 the fruit.
Citation please.
> Modern tomato > plants are like most modern milk cows and dogs, they would never > survive in the wild without massive human support system behind them.
Yet, I have volunteers, every year in my garden. They are Yellow Plum,
and grow amongst my dwarf fruit trees and strawberries.
Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web
Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis (Amazon.com product link shortened)
/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid06815176&sr=1-1
pg. 24
Healthy soil food webs control disease
A healthy food web is one that is not being destroyed by pathogenic and_
disease-causing organisms. Not all soil organisms are beneficial, after
all. As_ gardeners you know that pathogenic soil bacteria and fungi
cause many plain_ diseases. Healthy soil food webs not only have
tremendous numbers of individual organisms but a great diversity of
organisms. Remember that teaspoon_ of good garden soil? Perhaps 20,000
to 30,000 different species make up its bil-_lion bacteria-a healthy
population in numbers and diversity.
A large and diverse community controls troublemakers. A good analogy is_
a thief in a crowded market: if there are enough people around, they
will catch_ or even stop the thief (and it is in their self-interest to
do so). If the market is_ deserted, however, the thief will be
successful, just as he will be if he is stronger,_ faster, or in some
other way better adapted than those that would be in pursuit.
Just as important, every member of the soil food web has its place in
the_ soil community. Each, be it on the surface or subsurface, plays a
specific role._ Elimination of even just one group can drastically alter
a soil community. Birds_ participate by spreading protozoa carried on
their feet or dropping a worm_ taken from one area into another. Too
many cats, and things will change. Dung_ from mammals provides nutrients
for beetles in the soil. Kill the mammals, or_ eliminate their habitat
or food source (which amounts to the same thing), and_ you won't have as
many beetles. It works in the reverse as well. A healthy soil_ food web
won't allow one set of members to get so strong as to destroy the web._
If there are too many nematodes and protozoa, the bacteria and fungi on_
which they prey are in trouble and, ultimately, so are the plants in the
area.
And there are other benefits. The nets or webs fungi form around roots
act_ as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic
fungi and_ bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no
room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these fungi
or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can
easily be attacked.
Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal fungi, establish themselves in a
symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical
protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates,
these fungi provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant
nutrients. Soil food web _populations must be in balance, or these fungi
are eaten and the plant suffers.
Bacteria produce exudates of their own, and the slime they use to attach
to_ surfaces traps pathogens. Sometimes, bacteria work in conjunction
with fungi_ to form protective layers, not only around roots in the
rhizosphere but on an_ equivalent area around leaf surfaces, the
phyllosphere. Leaves produce exudates that attract microorganisms in
exactly the same way roots do; these act_ as a barrier to invasion,
preventing disease-causing organisms from entering_ the plant's system.
Some fungi and bacteria produce inhibitory compounds, things like
vitamins and antibiotics, which help maintain or improve plant health;
penicillin_ and streptomycin, for example, are produced by a soil-borne
fungus and a soil-_borne bacterium, respectively.
-----
Mid-Columbia growers add hot mustard to fields
By Drew Foster, Herald staff writer
Chinese hot mustard, like horseradish and habanero, is best consumed in
small portions.
That's part of the thinking behind efforts by many Mid-Columbia farmers,
particularly potato growers, to raise fields of mustard around this time
of year. The mustard is grown from August to late fall -- it can reach 5
to 7 feet tall before it's chopped and tilled.
The chopped and buried mustard plants release chemicals that kill
root-knot, root-lesion and stubby-root nematodes -- all enemies of
Mid-Columbia potatoes.
"The chemicals in the mustard plant are the same chemicals as the
mustard seed," said Andy McGuire, agriculture systems educator for the
Washington State University Extension Office in Ephrata.
Mustard seed, when cracked and ground, is used to make the hot mustard
offered at many Chinese restaurants. "You know that feeling you get when
you eat hot mustard? ... It's the same reaction in the soil," he said.
In a sense, the pesky nematodes are bathed in the sinus-searing
condiment.
"It gets into the water they're living in and kills them," McGuire said.
Using mustard as a so-called green manure crop in the Mid-Columbia dates
back more than a decade. Besides killing nematodes, chopped and tilled
mustard also fights soil-born fungal pathogens such as verticillium
wilt.
http://www.tri-cityherald.com/2009/11/08/784901/mid-columbia-growers-add-
hot-mustard.html
--
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 12:19:09 -0500, Bill who putters
> Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I >believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the >same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest >and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come >back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean. >The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are >essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens.
This brings to mind 4-H camps when young and conservation folks
presenting about crop rotation, fallow ground, fertilization with
animal manure. Fallow is a concept long abandoned, cover crops and
all and giving the soil rest and rebuild...given over to big-agri-biz
and chemferts and roundup ready everything. Many is the hour I have
spent in my youth walking bean fields and cutting weeds and later
riding a tractor, cultivating crops, removing weeds and aerating the
soil, etc. (yep, guilty as charged)
Had to spend a bit of time at the local Chevy dealership recently,
getting a vehicle inspection and sat visiting with the elderly owner
for an hour or so. Good converse, as it turns out we both have many
old characters in common from the last fifty years. Even a Playboy
Bunny, believe it or not. Part of the conversation involved the large
amount of ground being farmed by single proprietors...ten thousand
acres for one fellow, spread over a large chunk of northwest Missouri.
His "crew" plants, sprays poison, and never sees the crop again until
harvest.
Lots of love involved, eh?
Charlie
Posted by Bill who putters on March 12, 2010, 5:59 am
> On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 12:19:09 -0500, Bill who putters > > > > Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I > >believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the > >same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest > >and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come > >back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean. > >The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are > >essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens. > > This brings to mind 4-H camps when young and conservation folks > presenting about crop rotation, fallow ground, fertilization with > animal manure. Fallow is a concept long abandoned, cover crops and > all and giving the soil rest and rebuild...given over to big-agri-biz > and chemferts and roundup ready everything. Many is the hour I have > spent in my youth walking bean fields and cutting weeds and later > riding a tractor, cultivating crops, removing weeds and aerating the > soil, etc. (yep, guilty as charged) > > Had to spend a bit of time at the local Chevy dealership recently, > getting a vehicle inspection and sat visiting with the elderly owner > for an hour or so. Good converse, as it turns out we both have many > old characters in common from the last fifty years. Even a Playboy > Bunny, believe it or not. Part of the conversation involved the large > amount of ground being farmed by single proprietors...ten thousand > acres for one fellow, spread over a large chunk of northwest Missouri. > His "crew" plants, sprays poison, and never sees the crop again until > harvest. > > Lots of love involved, eh? > > Charlie
Industrial farming consequence via Union of concerned scientists.
--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
<http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending>
Posted by Bill who putters on March 12, 2010, 7:41 am
> > Lots of love involved, eh? > > > > Charlie > > Industrial farming consequence via Union of concerned scientists. > > <http://www.ucsusa.org/food_and_agriculture/science_and_impacts/impacts_i > ndustrial_agriculture/costs-and-benefits-of.html>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > > > > Worth a look /try.
> >
> > > > > >http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx
> >
> > > > > But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late)
> > > > > and
> > > > > that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
> > > > > never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato
> > > > > like
> > > > > Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
> > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato_orange.html
> >
> > > > > Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
> > > > > Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish
> > > > > Dwarf:
> > > > > 60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
> > > > > Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
> > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato.html
> >
> > > > > Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
> > > > > Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45
> > > > > days
> > > > >http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/vegetable/tomato/tomato_small.html
> >
> > > > > Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
> > > > >http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx
> >
> > > > > -- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
> > > > > wetting of leaves.
> > > > > -- Make sure to give plants space.
> > > > > -- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
> > > > > -- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
> > > > > fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
> > > > > plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
> > > > > -- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a
> > > > > 10-percent
> > > > > bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
> > > > > equipment.
> > > > > When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
> > > > > disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there
> > > > > aren't
> > > > > any.
> > > > >http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorny/2009/07/tomato.html
> >
> > > > > Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
> > > > > Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and
> > > > > Juliet
> > > > > have some resistance to foliar late blight. Juliet also exhibited
> > > > > some
> > > > > resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
> > > > >http://www.extension.org/article/18361
> >
> > > > > What to do if you think you have late blight
> > > > > The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
> > > > > certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
> > > > > University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
> > > > > make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
> > > > > then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic
> > > > > bag
> > > > > should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without
> > > > > a
> > > > > living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants
> > > > > that
> > > > > were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled
> > > > > because
> > > > > there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
> > > > > Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will
> > > > > potentially
> > > > > save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
> > > > > the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also
> > > > > have
> > > > > an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your
> > > > > neighbours'
> > > > > crops.
> > > > > <http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Default.aspx?DN=d026b209-36bd-4aa6-a
> > > > > eff
> > > > > -7e3da663f585>
> >
> > > > Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.
> >
> > > >http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20My ...
> > > > files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf
> >
> > > I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does
> > > nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience
> > > with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most
> > > wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and
> > > now to ozone).
> > > <http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://bpsommelier.b
> > > logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_&
> > > sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&vedBoQ7gEwBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt
> > > richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3DX%26rls%3Den>
> >
> > > In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners
> > > work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to
> > > have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I
> > > would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after
> > > sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled.
> >
> > Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of sorts but I
> > thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution
> > as you cut. Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. I just keep
> > em sharp and oil when they may need it.
> > Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I
> > believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the
> > same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest
> > and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come
> > back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean.
> > The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are
> > essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens.
> >
> Harmony, I don't think so, nature is about disease and massive
> extinction as the norm, tomatoes are not native to the USA for a
> reason, they are bred to taste good to humans, it does havoc to their
> survival abilities though. Hybrids are the extreme, their destiny is
> to go extinct in one season by design, you want a all natural fool
> proof tomato plant that lives in harmony with nature? it's fruit will
> probably taste like a potato! and bear 1/10 the fruit. Modern tomato
> plants are like most modern milk cows and dogs, they would never
> survive in the wild without massive human support system behind them.