Posted by Dan Musicant on July 1, 2010, 4:57 pm
Early on, my kabochas (and related squash, I always seem to have some
other _weird_ looking squash in the patch), are loath to set because:
1. There aren't any male flowers (with pollen)
2. The bees haven't discovered the flowers yet
I almost always have about 10 days to 2 weeks of female flowers that
preceed the males. If I see a male, I dab the stamin with a haiku brush
and dab any female flowers I see. This results in setting. I generally
do this for a few weeks until there are plenty of flowers, male and
female, and bees to insure that pollination will occur naturally.
My questions are these:
1. How much pollen is necessary to get the females to set? Are a few
grains (or even a single grain) sufficient? I ask this because the first
male flowers often have few if any pollen grains on them, so there's not
much to go around.
2. How long do the pollen grains stay viable? If I don't see another
male flower for several days, are the grains still adhering to my haiku
brush going to pollinate new female flowers effectively?
Dan
Email: dmusicant at pacbell dot net
Posted by David Hare-Scott on July 1, 2010, 6:51 pm
Dan Musicant wrote:
> Early on, my kabochas (and related squash, I always seem to have some
> other _weird_ looking squash in the patch), are loath to set because:
> 1. There aren't any male flowers (with pollen)
> 2. The bees haven't discovered the flowers yet
> I almost always have about 10 days to 2 weeks of female flowers that
> preceed the males. If I see a male, I dab the stamin with a haiku
> brush and dab any female flowers I see. This results in setting. I
> generally do this for a few weeks until there are plenty of flowers,
> male and female, and bees to insure that pollination will occur
> naturally.
> My questions are these:
> 1. How much pollen is necessary to get the females to set? Are a few
> grains (or even a single grain) sufficient? I ask this because the
> first male flowers often have few if any pollen grains on them, so
> there's not much to go around.
Technically only one as in cucurbits there is only one ovum per female
inflorescence (this is not universal, corn for example has many per ear).
It is a while since I studied this but IIRC there are several ways for the
pollen to get waylaid between touching the stigma and reaching the ovum
(like humans, girls don't have stigmas but you get the idea). Thus (like
humans mutatis mutandis) chances are much improved by having more than one
pollen grain get to the stigma.
> 2. How long do the pollen grains stay viable? If I don't see another
> male flower for several days, are the grains still adhering to my
> haiku brush going to pollinate new female flowers effectively?
I don't know for sure but I am guessing it varies with species but that it
might be viable for several days.
David
> other _weird_ looking squash in the patch), are loath to set because:
> 1. There aren't any male flowers (with pollen)
> 2. The bees haven't discovered the flowers yet
> I almost always have about 10 days to 2 weeks of female flowers that
> preceed the males. If I see a male, I dab the stamin with a haiku
> brush and dab any female flowers I see. This results in setting. I
> generally do this for a few weeks until there are plenty of flowers,
> male and female, and bees to insure that pollination will occur
> naturally.
> My questions are these:
> 1. How much pollen is necessary to get the females to set? Are a few
> grains (or even a single grain) sufficient? I ask this because the
> first male flowers often have few if any pollen grains on them, so
> there's not much to go around.