Hi
For the second year running my greenhouse tomatoes are struggling with
a vicious
fungal infection. All the plants of different types seem to
be affected. The
tomato flowers seem to be the problem. They go brown
and furry with spore
ridden mildew like fungus, finally falling off and
infecting any leaf/stem they
fall on. Quite often the healthy tomatoes
are not affected. Last year I ended
up removing almost all the leaves
on the plants. This year I have been trying
to remove the remains of
the flowers before they infect other parts of the
plant.
I had hoped that last years problems were related to the really wet
weather but
as this is happening again am at a loss as to the real
cause.
I have spent a lot of time tending these plants and am hoping that
someone will
be able to suggest what this infection is and if I have
any chance of getting
rid of it.
Thanks
Rob
--
rhino666
> Hi
> For the second year running my greenhouse tomatoes are struggling with
> a vicious fungal infection. All the plants of different types seem to
> be affected. The tomato flowers seem to be the problem. They go brown
> and furry with spore ridden mildew like fungus, finally falling off and
> infecting any leaf/stem they fall on. Quite often the healthy tomatoes
> are not affected. Last year I ended up removing almost all the leaves
> on the plants. This year I have been trying to remove the remains of
> the flowers before they infect other parts of the plant.
> I had hoped that last years problems were related to the really wet
> weather but as this is happening again am at a loss as to the real
> cause.
Without benefit of a visual, it certainly sounds like a fungal problem as
you guessed, most likely Gray Mold, and sounds like a carryover from last
year. As much as possible, keep stripping out the diseased parts as you
have to avoid spreading to the fruit. Try sulfur, powder( duster) or
wettable (spray). Neem oil can be effective, although usually not this
late in the game, some have not had much luck with Neem. There are many
other products that will also work well; Organic, Natural, as well as
Synthetic. Just make sure it is registered for tomatoes. I use both
Sulfur and Neem, starting with a sulfur for one applications x two weeks
and then Neem once every 7-10 days. I prefer not to burn Sulfur, but some
have good results with this method. BTW, spraying is not a evil thing. Do
you have fans? if not you should. Spread out your plants for good air
circulation . As much as possible, Avoid splashing the leaves and water
early to allow any wet leaves to dry out. At the end of this season it is
time to strip out the Greenhouse and disinfect EVERYTHING. A mild bleach
solution will work. Next year, use disease resistant plants, start a
preventive program early. One other thing, make sure you have a good pest
control, otherwise they will spread the mold around, Good luck.
gunner;858399 Wrote:
> "rhino666" rhino666.4e40c6a@gardenbanter.co.uk wrote in
message
>
> Hi
>
> For the second year running my greenhouse tomatoes are struggling
> with
> a vicious fungal infection. All the plants of different types seem
> to
> be affected. The tomato flowers seem to be the problem. They go
> brown
> and furry with spore ridden mildew like fungus, finally falling off
> and
> infecting any leaf/stem they fall on. Quite often the healthy
> tomatoes
> are not affected. Last year I ended up removing almost all the
> leaves
> on the plants. This year I have been trying to remove the remains of
> the flowers before they infect other parts of the plant.
>
> I had hoped that last years problems were related to the really wet
> weather but as this is happening again am at a loss as to the real
> cause.-
>
>
> Without benefit of a visual, it certainly sounds like a fungal problem
> as
> you guessed, most likely Gray Mold, and sounds like a carryover from
> last
> year. As much as possible, keep stripping out the diseased parts as
> you
> have to avoid spreading to the fruit. Try sulfur, powder( duster) or
>
> wettable (spray). Neem oil can be effective, although usually not
> this
> late in the game, some have not had much luck with Neem. There are
> many
> other products that will also work well; Organic, Natural, as well as
>
> Synthetic. Just make sure it is registered for tomatoes. I use both
>
> Sulfur and Neem, starting with a sulfur for one applications x two
> weeks
> and then Neem once every 7-10 days. I prefer not to burn Sulfur, but
> some
> have good results with this method. BTW, spraying is not a evil thing.
> Do
> you have fans? if not you should. Spread out your plants for good air
>
> circulation . As much as possible, Avoid splashing the leaves and
> water
> early to allow any wet leaves to dry out. At the end of this season it
> is
> time to strip out the Greenhouse and disinfect EVERYTHING. A mild
> bleach
> solution will work. Next year, use disease resistant plants, start a
>
> preventive program early. One other thing, make sure you have a good
> pest
> control, otherwise they will spread the mold around, Good luck.
Hi gunner
Thank you very much for your kind reply.
I don't think this particular problem is gray mold as the fruit not
affected
unless in direct contact with the source of infection - the
decaying flowers.
These flowers in the worst case have a hairy brown
fungus with powdery spores.
Anything they land on, fruit, stems or
most commonly leaves quickly become
infected.
My greenhouse has no fans. It measures 6ft x 6ft and the tomato plants
are way
too close together which does not help matters. As you say I
think it very
likely that this same problem as last year is a hangover
where the basic fungal
spores were still active.
I can buy sulphur powder off ebay. What is the best method of
application ? -
can I dilute it with water and spray as not sure how to
go about dusting the
plants. I will definitely need to disinfect/bleach
the greenhouse before next
growing season. I guess diluted bleach could
be sprayed over the greenhouse but
how do I effectively treat the soil
?
Thank for your help
Rob
--
rhino666
> gunner;858399 Wrote:
>> "rhino666" rhino666.4e40c6a@gardenbanter.co.uk wrote in message
> I can buy sulphur powder off ebay. What is the best method of
> application ? - can I dilute it with water and spray as not sure how to
> go about dusting the plants. I will definitely need to disinfect/bleach
> the greenhouse before next growing season. I guess diluted bleach could
> be sprayed over the greenhouse but how do I effectively treat the soil
> ?
The mold type is not as important as IDing it as a fungal as opposed to
other problem conditions.
Gray mold can be brownish in color so don't let the color be a key indicator
and it can get into the fruit, usually through the stem section. The
fruit's hard waxy exterioris the tomato's best protection. Be aware that
this can infect your post-harvest fruit, although a vinegar/water wash (
high acidic pH) will usually help w/ control in the kitchen.
After reviewing the pic here, do look around this site a bit to help your
knowledge base:
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomWlt/Gray_Tom.htm
other resources:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/leaf/
As I have said previous, start a Preventative Maintenance program ( PM).
Sulfur use; complete dusting coverage is a bit difficult, good burning
equipment is another 80-100$ US and leaves a smell and a film on the
"glass", cannot use it outside. You can use a metal plate over a candle,
but.........Spraying is best and I can use it around the yard as well.
a small bag of Sulfur (10 lb. ) is about 10$ US
http://www.gardenharvestsupply.com/product/hi-yield-dusting-wettable-sulfur-4-lb-bag
4 tblspns per Gal (US), do follow all the directions as sulfur can cause
damage to sensitive plant.
I just picked up a nice quality quart/liter sprayer for ~7$US, Easier to
use and I don't have to use the gal sprayer. {I save it for my fruit trees
;) }
spray bottle:
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/safer-garden-fungicide.html
Make sure not to apply when it is too hot and within a week or so of any oil
spray
so as to have full disclosure, here is the scary scorecard results of
Sulfur, a naturally occurring product:
http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/pesticides.tcl?edf_substance_idw04-34-9
Cooper is also considered a good product to use and the Bordeaux mixture is
one I want to explore a bit more before trying. supposedly messy.
http://msucares.com/newsletters/pests/infobytes/19990915.htm
or http://www.garden-services.com/bordeaux.html
Copper is used here in the PNW as an algaecide(sp?).
Scary part:
http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/pesticides.tcl?edf_substance_idt40%2d50%2d8
and here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PI103
Been in the 90-100f here the last few days and then expected to be back
around 55f again when the rain returns next week. I do use misters 2 x a
day when the full sun is on the house, the rest of the time it is filtered
sun. lot of opportuniuties for mold.
So far, 2 simple Sulfur sprays early on and a follow up PM program of neem
oil @ 7-10 days has worked well for me. As the climates change I may have
to as well.
I do not use the baking soda trick
http://www.oisat.org/control_methods/other_substances/baking_soda.html
as it is more sodium (salt) and absorbs more quickly than potassium salts
potentially causing uptake problems and a sodium overload leading to
conditions like Blossom End Rot. I believe the bicarbonate solutions are
more useful in soils as the soil buffers the salt uptake a bit better than a
hydro system. You may want to consider some of these tricks.
more info on the different bicarbonates
http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/bakingsoda.html
Try the Potassium Bicarbonate first.
http://www.planetnatural.com/planetnatural/images/bi-carb-label.pdf
Course the Organos cannot use some of the bicarbonates such as ammonium
bicarbonates which have synthetic. There is also a danger in a using
bicarbonate "fix-alls" in alkaline soils as well as hydro systems.
Disinfectant/sanitizer : Bleach; not the greatest but half life is quick
http://www.hawaii.edu/ehso/bio/Hypochlorite.pdf
1 unit to 9 or 10 units of 5.25%, sprayed.(read labels of household bleach,
strength % vary) get the pots and tools also
another resource for your review
http://www.albertafarmfresh.com/disinfectants.pdf
organic:
http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/ghtomato.html
I'm trying to find a source for this out west;
Selectricide: http://jmaugeldesigns.com/Portfolio/brochure_smt.pdf
very low ppm use
Soil: are you growing in the dirt... in the house? Major expense/labor to
clean 36 sf of soil, best to layer some mulch such as fine wood chips and
skip that next year, and maybe the next . Nature will take care of most of
that in that time especially if you sprayed. Meantime try using grow bags,
rockwool or some form of hydroponics ( rain gutters PVC pipe, wood boxes
lined with plastic) or fill sand bags, a few trash or recycled grocery
bags
( I do not mean to sound simplistic but make sure there are drain holes) or
some
5gal/ 18 ltr containers,buckets, etc with a soil mix for each plant next
year. what is good here is that you can easily remove any plants that are
going
bad and replace them. Then set up a drip irrigation system, a timer and sit
back .
Try soilless, add a nute reservoir, a pump and you got Hydroponics.
'ponics are a lot of fun for tinkers . That is a whole 'nother chapter,
http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/lessons/Introduction/lesson1-1intro.htm
"Next page" is at the bottom
This is long and hopefully not too disjointed.
If you can't find an answer, ask.
Would like to hear of your efforts.
good luck
Gunner
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> For the second year running my greenhouse tomatoes are struggling with
> a vicious fungal infection. All the plants of different types seem to
> be affected. The tomato flowers seem to be the problem. They go brown
> and furry with spore ridden mildew like fungus, finally falling off and
> infecting any leaf/stem they fall on. Quite often the healthy tomatoes
> are not affected. Last year I ended up removing almost all the leaves
> on the plants. This year I have been trying to remove the remains of
> the flowers before they infect other parts of the plant.
> I had hoped that last years problems were related to the really wet
> weather but as this is happening again am at a loss as to the real
> cause.